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SURFER'S HEALTH

To Surgery or Not to Surgery? The Decision That John John Florence and I Both Had to Make

Dec 31, 2019

To Surgery or Not to Surgery? The Decision That John John Florence and I Both Had to Make

To Surgery or Not to Surgery?   The Decision That John John Florence and I Both Had to Make As many of you know, I’ve been struggling with a knee injury for the past few months. I stayed off of it for a month after I first hurt it, but I couldn’t say no to an invite to Kelly Slater’s Surf Ranch and ended up re-tweaking my knee there. When I got back from that trip I decided to have it looked at, and ended up getting an MRI on my knee. The MRI showed that I had an old...

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Dec 6, 2019

YOGA Pose Of The Month: Malasana

YOGA POSE OF THE MONTH: MALASANA The yoga pose of the month for May is one that directly improves our ability to surf better. After all, that is exactly why many of us get into yoga. We want to become stronger, fitter and more flexible so that we can better enjoy our hobbies and sports and perform at a higher level. Although this pose is one that can help you surf better, yoga is intended to do something far more important, like helping us live better. Whether you’ve been practicing yoga for years or are just getting into it to help...

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YOGA POSE OF THE MONTH: UTTANASANA

May 13, 2019

YOGA POSE OF THE MONTH: UTTANASANA

UTTANASANA YOGA POSE Greg Long once said that anyone who is serious about big wave surfing and doesn’t do yoga, is fooling themselves. The reality is, that the logic applies to surfing of any type. Not only does yoga keep us limber and prevent injuries, it also increases core strength and teaches us to breathe properly. These are two fundamental building blocks of good athletics. To keep us surfing and living at our full potential, local yoga teacher and life-long surfer Kilty Inafuku will lead us through a yoga pose of the month. This month’s pose is intended to help us...

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Sep 14, 2018

YOGA FOR SURFERS: RECLINED DOUBLE PIGEON POSE

YOGA FOR SURFERS: RECLINED DOUBLE PIGEON POSE As surfers, we tend to do a lot of repetitive motion and spend a lot of time in certain positions that can create imbalances in our bodies. Two of these—the arched-back paddle position and standing on a board with our feet perpendicular to the stringer (often with the majority of our weight and power on our back foot, and with our front foot turned ever so slightly forward)—create tightness and imbalance in our hips. This can affect our ability to surf and do other activities well, and also contribute to lower back pain....

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The Value of Naps

Aug 1, 2018

The Value of Naps

The Value of Naps Most people know that sleep is important, but many fail to understand exactly how essential good sleep is for our health. While we are sleeping, our bodies repair injuries, reduce inflammation, and allow the mind to recover. Inflammation is a huge factor in diseases such as cancer, heart disease, sinusitis, and numerous other ailments, and anytime your body doesn’t get to recover completely, inflammation builds up in the body. This weakens the immune system and makes you more susceptible to the diseases mentioned above. In fact, it’s been found that even the simple sleep disruption of...

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Mar 23, 2017

Surfing’s New Comeback Kid - Owen Wright’s Incredible Return to Form

Surfing’s New Comeback Kid Owen Wright’s Incredible Return to Form When Owen Wright paddled out at Pipeline 15 months ago, he had no way of knowing that the session would nearly cost him his career—let alone his life. Wright came into the final event of the year in 2015 as a contender for the world championship. He was widely acknowledged as the hardest-charging surfer on tour, having put on heroic displays at Teahupoo and Cloudbreak, and a win at Pipe and an early loss by a few big names would see him win the title that many thought was inevitable....

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