Author Archives: Kayla Przybilla

Hawaiian South Shore July Newsletter

When Surf Trips Go Awry

What is it they say about the best-laid plans of mice and men?

We’d always wanted to go to the Galapagos Islands, and with Kilty leading a yoga retreat there, we figured that was a perfect opportunity to combo the trip into a surf adventure. I’d tried out that CJ Sprout log with the Thunderbolt Technology a few times at Bowls, and figured it would a good traveler since it is so lightweight and strong, so I was stoked when Dave decided to send it with us.

When we heard that our resident yoga teacher and Hawaiian South Shore journalist Kilty Inafuku and Matt Rott were heading to the Galapagos Islands on a surf trip, we figured we’d send along a 10’0″ CJ Nelson Sprout for them to test in the local waves. But as it turns out, things didn’t end up going as planned! We’ll let Matt tell the story in his own words.

cj nelson sprout
CJ Nelson Sprout

The Galapagos Islands and Ecuador in general are right on the equator, so while they pick up both north and south swells, most of the waves are pretty small since the swells have to travel so far to get there. So we figured a traditional log would be perfect. Imagine our surprise when we showed up to the best forecast the Galapagos Islands have seen in years—nonstop swell in the head-high+ range for 10 days straight. After hauling the 10’0″ halfway across the world, it didn’t look like we were going to have a chance to ride it!

We ended up surfing a lefthand point the first two days of our trip—overhead rippable walls that were fun on our fish and shortboard, but way too big for leash-less, single-fin log. But that’s when things started to go really haywire. After our second surf session we were hanging out at a local restaurant eating ceviche and watching the sea lions wandering all over town, my middle finger started to hurt. I didn’t think much of it, but it got worse and worse, and by that night I could barely sleep. The next morning I was sure I’d broken my hand—it hurt worse than any broken bone I’d ever had (and I’ve had a lot), and I couldn’t move my middle finger at all. No surfing, no mountain biking, no rock climbing—I was in one of the world’s most exotic locations and couldn’t do much more than walk around and ice my hand.

The next day I visited a local doctor to see what he thought. Due to the fact that I hadn’t suffered any impact or trauma to the hand, he didn’t think it was broken. Instead, he diagnosed stenosing tenosynovitis, which is basically a repetitive motion injury that can become chronic and eventually lead to trigger finger.

Fast-forward a few days to Houston Airport, where had a layover on our way home. I was dragging our oversized board bag (full of boards we didn’t end up using) through the airport, and noticed that my hand was now swollen up like a ballon and starting to get an angry shade of red. I sent a picture to a doctor friend, and she told me to go straight to the ER as soon as our last flight landed.

At the ER, the doctors had no idea what was wrong with me. It didn’t seem like typical trigger finger symptoms, but I also hadn’t suffered any puncture wounds or bites/stings that I noticed, so infection didn’t seem likely either. But since the hand was so swollen and red, they figured the safest thing would be to put me on antibiotics, just in case there was an infection in there. Otherwise, there was a chance I could develop a compartmental infection (which could result in an amputated finger) or go septic (which could kill me!)

Less than three hours after taking the first dose of antibiotics, the swelling had gone down by 90%. The next day I was able to rock climb, mountain bike, and surf, and three days later I’m 100% recovered, even though I still have seven more days of antibiotics to take. Despite the fact there was no diagnosable reason for the injury, it appeared that I had infectious tenosynovitis, rather than the stenosing type!

The moral of the story? You never know what you are going to pick up when you are traveling overseas, so be flexible in your plans, always have travel insurance, and get in to see a doctor as soon as you notice something wrong. And drop into HSS to check out the CJ Nelson Sprout. I reckon it would go pretty good on the right waves!

Exploring the Galapagos Islands
with Oahu Yoga Teacher, Kilty Inafuku

The Galapagos Islands are one of the most protected ecosystems on the planet. Only 3 percent of the area is accessible without permits—and this basically covers the two major towns and the various privately owned ranches where locals live. The other 97 percent of the islands’ area are heavily regulated, and accessible only with permits—which are held by only a few tour operators. In other words, the Galapagos Islands are not the easiest place in the world to do self-directed, independent adventuring.

Of course, none of that matters when you are shacked up in a luxurious, off-the-grid eco resort, with homemade, farm-to-table food, giant tortoises wandering around the 50-acre yard, customized yoga classes morning and evening, and all-day tours with the best naturalists in the islands.

Hawaiian South Shore’s resident yoga expert, Kilty Inafuku, just got back from leading a five-star yoga retreat based on the island of Santa Cruz, where 10 lucky yogis (including five from Oahu) got to tune up their asana practices and explore the Enchanted Islands. Their hosts were Roberta and Reina Plaza, who moved to the Galapagos Islands 25 years ago and have dedicated themselves to building and operating a fully sustainable ranch/coffee plantation/retreat center. But it was Kilty and her yoga classes that were at the heart of the retreat. Each day, she’d center the guests with a guided meditation and asana practice, and each evening, she’d wind them down with a mellow yin practice.

In between yoga classes, it was non-stop exploration. The group visited four different islands, each of which featured different species of exotic birds, marine iguanas, and giant tortoises. Charles Darwin formulated his theory of evolution in the Galapagos Islands, and it’s easy to see why. The Archipelago’s 21 islands are all close enough to be sailed between easily, but far enough apart that species were sequestered and able to evolve separately over the millennia. By the time Darwin arrived, there were numerous varieties of finches and mockingbirds on the different islands, both of which were integral to his discovery of evolution. Likewise, 15 different giant tortoise species were present in the islands, with some differing even from the highlands to lowlands of the same island. On Santa Cruz, the lowland tortoise has to reach higher up trees and plants to get food, so they have evolved higher shells that allow them more flexibility with their necks. Meanwhile, the highland tortoises have plentiful grass and plants on the ground to eat, so they don’t need the high-necked shell, which is why they have evolved a lower shell, which offers more protection from predators.

Some of the most colorful inhabitants of the Galapagos Islands are the Blue-Footed Boobies. In addition to their funny names, these birds feature bright blue feet, which they use to dance and attract mates. The local Frigate is also quite bright and colorful. The male has a large, inflatable, bright red neck that takes 30 minutes to inflate, and which it uses to attract females.

There is plentiful sea life in the water as well, as the yogis discovered while snorkeling. Sea turtles, fish, and sharks abound, but it’s the species that live at the water’s edge that are the most interesting. Marine iguanas are found only in the Galapagos Islands, and can grow quite large. They march around the beaches looking for food, then swim out through the shorebreak whenever they feel like cooling down. Meanwhile, thousands of sea lions lounge on beaches, rocks, harbor jetties, streets, cars, boats, and even benches at restaurants. Because these animals are all protected in the Galapagos Ecological Park, they don’t fear humans, and are an ubiquitous part of life in the Galapagos. Most of the locals are so used to them that they don’t even pay attention, except to chase the sea lions out from under their cars when they need to drive somewhere.

Located just off the coast of Ecuador (which governs the islands), the Galapagos Islands are only slightly cooler than Hawaii, both on land and in the water. There are waves to surf, mountains to climb, and animals to see—and of course, yoga to keep you limber! Crime is virtually nonexistent, the people are as friendly as they come, and the country even uses the US dollar as its currency (after the local currency collapsed around the year 2000). In other words, there aren’t many places that are easier to visit—especially when your friendly yoga teacher has planned out all of your activities for you!

Now back on Oahu for some summertime waves, Kilty is already looking forward to her next yoga retreat in October. This one will be held in Dordogne, France, smack in the middle of wine country. The retreat will be a benefit for the Susan G. Komen foundation, which helps fund breast cancer research. If you are interested in joining Kilty for a week of yoga in the heart of France, visit Or, if a South American adventure is more your style, then you might want to wait until March when Kilty will be taking a lucky group to Patagonia ( retreat.html)! Until then, she’ll see you in class, and we’ll see you in the water!

SEAL Breathing Techniques
to Help You Surf and Live Better

Most yogis and professional athletes know that breath is the foundation of your performance. Every movement we do is fueled by the burning of calories, which requires an aerobic process that requires oxygen. But when we are under stress—the very times that we need energy the most—we often forget to breathe properly. And many of us never breathe properly at all. We do shallow breaths from our chests, emptying and filling the tops of our lungs, but never actually breath with our diaphragms, which allows us to access the entire volume of our lungs.

Another way that surfers are going green is with our clothes. From t-shirts and sweaters to bikinis and boardshorts, we are finding environmentally friendly ways to make textiles from organic or recycled fabrics, thereby minimizing our impact on the earth. One of the newest fabrics is being used by Vissla to make boardshorts out of coconut fibers! Cocotex takes the unused organic waste from coconuts and turns it into a carbon fabric that dries quickly and is resistant to odors. This Cocotex is then combined with recycled “Repreve” polyester yarns to create high-performance boardshorts that are good for your skin, your surfing, and your surroundings.

Navy Seals are trained to breathe properly when they are under duress, and we can learn a lot from them. As surfers, we are athletes (even though we often don’t think of ourselves that way) who perform in a stressful, foreign environment that is largely out of our control.

By learning to breathe properly during exertion, while resting between waves, and when we are in scary situations (such as when huge waves are about to land on our heads), we can fuel our bodies to more efficiently deal with the situation. The first step is tuning into diaphragmatic breathing. Sit on a chair and place one hand on your chest and the other on your stomach. As you inhale, you should feel your stomach extend outward first, and then feel your chest expand. If you only feel your chest expanding but not your belly, then you are not breathing from your diaphragm, and you are only accessing around half of what your lungs are capable of. Practice breathing from your diaphragm until your lungs feel full (typically for a count of four), then open your shoulders to the sky and allow your chest to expand for another count of four. By this time, your lungs should be fully utilized and full of oxygen-rich air.

Once you master diaphragmatic breathing, it is time to learn our first breathing exercise tactical breathing. Navy Seals use this to calm themselves down during stressful situations when the fight-or-flight response is trying to kick in. Place your hands on your stomach and chest and slowly engage in diaphragmatic breathing, inhaling for a count of four. Once your lungs are completely filled, hold your breath for a second, then begin a slow exhale for eight seconds (depending on your lung capacity, you may want to inhale for more than four seconds and exhale for longer than eight seconds. The important thing is to ensure that your exhale is twice as long as your inhale). This slow, controlled breathing will help to settle you down and help you deal with stress. You can use this technique when you are scared in the ocean, when you are stressed at work, or when you are stuck in traffic and getting angry and frustrated.

The second breathing technique the Navy Seals use is called box breathing. This goes beyond calming you down and helps to sharpen your focus and reaction time. You will engage in the same diaphragmatic breathing, but your inhale, breath hold, exhale, and empty breath hold will all be the same length. Start with four seconds, and then progress to longer if your lungs can handle it. Breath in for four seconds, ensuring that you start your inhale with your diaphragm and then progress to your chest and upper lungs. Then hold your breath for four seconds, followed by a four-second exhale. Finally, hold your breath again with empty lungs for four seconds before starting the next cycle.

Throughout both of these breathing exercises, the important thing is to settle into a comfortable rhythm. You don’t want to be clamping down or forcing. Instead, your breath should be laying the foundation for relaxation and focus. Remember, you can go weeks without food and days without water, but you can only last a few minutes without oxygen. Many people think of food as the fuel our bodies use to power themselves, but food can’t be burned without oxygen. Learn to breathe properly, and everything else you do will benefit!

Member of the Month: Q and A with Nina

When and why did you initially get into surfing?

I got into surfing when I was 22; I was a late bloomer. I always had friends who surfed, I would tag along at the beach and just swim, body surf, but oddly never wanted to surf. One day, we headed to Queens and it was just lines of rolling sets coming in—-clean 3-4 foot clear, blue waves washing upon the hot shores at Waikiki and I told my friend I’ll go! I started learning at Queens/Canoes and learned surf etiquette pretty quickly, hahahaha. Soon, I stopped tagging along friends and surfed solo, borrowed my dad’s board (thanks Dad, sorry for dinging it), and

Did you have a time period you laid off from surfing? If so, when and why did you start back up?

I only laid off surfing for 3 years in my life thus far. It was the three years I was pregnant and gave birth to my beautiful baby girl. I started back up because it was natural to do so. Like waking up and making coffee, it’s just on my mind one way or another, just like second nature.

What is your favorite thing about surfing?

Surfing alone is uplifting and makes me feel happy alone. But as you surf, you start meeting like-minded surfers and not so like-minded surfers, you share moments and grow with each surf session. You form bonds with people, the ocean, uncles, groms, kooks, hahaha, and see each other progress and fun moments. You start to have a sense of belonging with the wave and lifestyle/culture you create and play apart with other surfers, share and grow. Oh, and it’s fun.

Where is your favorite place to eat after surfing? What is your favorite item on the menu?

Soooo many! But Saigons in Kaimuki is pretty standard.

What other hobbies do you have besides surfing?

Walking, friends.

What type of work do you do?


Tell us about the Straw Hat Wetsuit you purchased from us?

I received my first Straw Hat as a gift, and it served me WELL. I’ve tried other wetsuits and they either breakdown or just aren’t warm enough, if they are warm enough, they often compensate my paddling power. Straw Hat kept me warm in winter waves on Oahu and still provided maneuverability with paddling. Felt lightweight and smooth in skin. Aesthetic wise, it made me look good, hahaha. I felt like an X-men heroine. Lastly, they have an excellent guarantee for the wetsuit, questions were always addressed when I had them.

Do you have any additional comments?

Thanks Hawaiian South Shore for asking my input!

Straw Hat Wetsuit

Introducing COOLA
a Healthier Sunscreen Option

Natural Sunscreen from COOLA

As people become more and more aware of how the things that we consume affect us, the organic food movement has become more than just a fad—it is a mainstream movement. Meanwhile, our increasing environmental awareness has led to Hawaii creating laws that require sunscreen sold in the state to be reef-safe. But it isn’t just reefs that need to be protected from the toxins found in many sunscreens. Just as the foods that we consume directly impact our health, the products that we put on our skin are also absorbed into the body and have an effect on us—so, it is just as important for our bodies that our sunscreen be safe for consumption

Ten years ago, an East Coast surfer by the name of Chris Birchby was studying art design and packaging in school while still spending as much time in the water as possible. When both of his parents were diagnosed with melanoma, Chris became aware of how important non-toxic protection from the sun is. Both parents ended up going into remission, but after their health was restored, Chris decided that he needed to do something to help other people prevent the scare that his family had gone through. He set out to develop a sunscreen that was as safe for the human body as it was effective in blocking cancer-causing rays from the sun.

Chris was a professional poker player and had saved his winnings from the various tournaments he’d played in. He took that money and invested it into making an environmentally friendly, non-toxic sunscreen called COOLA. It uses recycled materials and solar power in their production, making it as good for the earth as they are for the body.

Coola is distributed in countries around the world, and will soon join our stock of sustainable, responsible suncare products here at Hawaiian South Shore. Good for the ocean, good for your skin, and keeps you in the water all day—you can’t beat that!

Hawaiian South Shore June Newsletter

Mugicha: Japan’s Favorite Drink That You’ve Probably Never Heard Of

One of the most exhilarating parts of visiting and living in other countries and cultures is the opportunity to explore their unique food and drinks. Growing up in Okinawa, I was exposed to all sorts of interesting dishes and beverages, but perhaps the one that I recall the most vividly, at least during the summer months, is mugicha.

Mugicha is tea made from roasted barley and is a staple of the Japanese diet during summer. It is extremely cool and tasty, and a great way to refresh yourself during a hot summer’s day—which there are a lot of in Japan! It has a savory flavor, derived from roasting unhulled barley until it becomes the color of caramel, then steeping it in hot water.  It might not be the most appetizing-looking beverage, but the taste definitely grows on you!

Virtually every Japanese person grows up drinking mugicha during the summers—from toddlers up to the elderly! My grandmother told me it’s better than drinking water because it hydrates you faster. Not sure if that’s true but when I help out in the field, that’s all we have to drink. Many people think of sake as the national drink of Japan, but mugicha probably fits that description a bit better. The most amazing thing about mugicha is that it isn’t just universally loved in Japan, but it is also quite healthy. It is free of any processed sugars and full of vitamins and antioxidants. It has been suggested that the drink helps benefit blood circulation, and that it also has cancer-preventative properties.

Another interesting thing I read on – According to a 2006 article in the “Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry,” a beverage made of roasted ground barley like mugicha, protects your teeth against cavities. It does so by preventing the bacterium Streptococcus mutans from proliferating on the tooth’s surface and causing decay. Maybe that’s why Japanese give toddlers mugicha. 

I bet; you’re wondering if you can get it in Hawaii? YES, it’s sold at Nijiya Market and Don Quijote.

Brett, Manager: Lucky we Live in Hawaii!

Over the past few months we’ve had a chance to get to know Brett Martin, our store manager here at Hawaiian South Shore. This month, he describes his college surf experiences and explains the differences between surfing in California and Hawaii.

So, you went straight from high school into college, right? Did you surf while you were in college?

Not as often as I wanted to, but I tried to get out once per month or so. I mostly surfed Huntington Beach and Newport Beach, because those were the closest spots to where I lived. However, it was still around a 45-minute drive when traffic was good, and more than an hour if traffic was bad.

I had my own longboard and would also borrow my friend’s shortboard from time to time. At the time, longboarding was appropriate for my abilities. The shortboard I borrowed was a high-performance 6’0″, and I sometimes found it hard to catch a bunch of waves on it. But when I got out there, I always had a bunch of fun.

What were the main differences between surfing in California and surfing here in Hawaii?

The thing about surfing in California is that most days of the year, the wind is light/offshore in the morning, and then blows out by noon. So, if you can’t get out early due to your schedule, you either have to surf blown out waves or you don’t surf at all. Plus, the mornings are pretty crowded since that’s when the waves are good. You can either surf clean, crowded waves in the morning or blown out empty waves in the afternoon.

Here in Hawaii, the trades are either blowing or they aren’t, so you can basically choose where to surf based on what the waves are doing, and then surf whenever you want during the day. Since the water is so clear and warm, it’s just more enjoyable to surf. In California, the water is always cold no matter what. Both during summer and winter—it’s always cold. Also, the water is so murky, and it’s always scary because you never know what swimming around or underneath of you!

The other thing I appreciate about Hawaii is that when it rains, you can still find a lot of spots that aren’t too dirty or polluted. In California on the other hand, after it rains, you can’t really surf anywhere or you risk getting sick. Lucky, we live in Hawaii!

Boardshorts Made From Coconuts

How Vissla is Revolutionizing the Surf-wear Industry with Cocotex Technology

One of the most important movements in the surf industry over the past few years has been to find ways to produce our surf products in a more environmentally friendly manner. From eco-resins and bamboo boards to wetsuits made from plant-based rubber and sunscreens that are reef-friendly, we surfers are finally trying to clean up our carbon footprint—or at least minimize it as much as our hobby will allow.

Another way that surfers are going green is with our clothes. From t-shirts and sweaters to bikinis and boardshorts, we are finding environmentally friendly ways to make textiles from organic or recycled fabrics, thereby minimizing our impact on the earth. One of the newest fabrics is being used by Vissla to make boardshorts out of coconut fibers! Cocotex takes the unused organic waste from coconuts and turns it into a carbon fabric that dries quickly and is resistant to odors. This Cocotex is then combined with recycled “Repreve” polyester yarns to create high-performance boardshorts that are good for your skin, your surfing, and your surroundings.

While Vissla is known for their avant-garde approach to fashion and beach culture, it shouldn’t come as much of a surprise that they are also quite environmentally conscious. The brand recently signed Ph.D. scientist, Hawaiian sovereignty advocate and staunch environmentalist Clifford Kapono, who now fills an important niche on their team. As the de facto global voice of surfing environmentalism, Cliff has been the force behind the Surfer Biome Project and numerous green surfboard initiatives and competitions. Needless to say, someone as environmentally aware as Cliff isn’t going to wear boardshorts that are bad for the planet, so it is a no-brainer that Vissla would help elevate the surfwear industry and find a way to bring coconuts into the mix.

Here in Hawaii, coconuts have long been an important part of our culture and society. They provided our ancestors with food, fiber, shells for various uses, and even husks for fires. Today, they are one of the symbols of our state and people. The fact that they can also be used in the construction of boardshorts—the shorts that we wear while enjoying the pastime of Hawaiian kings—only makes them even more important.

Member of the Month: Corey Wong

When and why did you initially get into surfing?

I started surfing around 1972. An uncle wanted me to get more physical, so he got me a surfing lesson in Waikiki. Then I got a used board and continued surfing at Queens, Pops, Threes, Concessions, Diamond Head, and Wailupe. My first new board was a Ben Aipa board. My second board was a Bonzer which I broke at Ehukai when I was trying to have my high school senior picture taken. It didn’t matter; the camera broke too.

Went to college in southern California and continued surfing at Huntington Cliffs, Santa Barbara, and Malibu.

Did you have a time period you laid off from surfing? If so, when and why did you start back up?

Yes, I stopped when I graduated from college and started working as an engineer in Pasadena. I did a career change to become an acupuncturist and just focused my life on Traditional Chinese Medicine. Then I got married and moved to China for two years. We moved back to Hawaii after our first child was born. Two more eventually filled our lives. So, with work and family keeping me busy, I accepted that my surfing days were over. But when my son was sixteen in 2015, he wanted to learn how to surf. Without any surfing friends to teach him, I said I would. But first, I had to get back into it after 35 years. Started off with a 7’2”, then a 6’8”, then a 6’3”, and now I use a 5’6” board. I took my son surfing, but because he’s an engineering student at UH Manoa, he doesn’t have much time. So, I surf more than he does.

What is your favorite thing about surfing?

There are so many reasons why I like it. Most of all, I like the physical and mental challenge of surfing. Knowing I have so much more to improve keeps me going out. So with every wave I catch, I know I can do better. Then within that physical aspect, there’s peace and calmness of being in the ocean especially at sunrise (when yin energy transforms to yang energy), and having the relaxed focus of riding a wave. The people I meet out there are pretty cool too.

Where is your favorite place to eat after surfing? What is your favorite item on the menu?

Since I usually sunrise surf, I go home to eat. My Japanese wife has a Japanese breakfast prepared for me when I get home. First, she gives me a kale smoothie with fruits blended in. Then, I eat miso soup, rice, natto, and tsukemono.

What other hobbies do you have besides surfing?

Hobbies? I work seven days a week. I do acupuncture and teach various health classes. Breaking this work routine, I’ve joined Acupuncturist Without Borders and gone to Yucatan, Mexico to give free treatments to the Mayan people last year. So, other than work and surfing, my “hobby” would be taking my youngest son, Kapono, to various venues to perform playing his ukulele. Watching and listening to him play amazes me as I watch his talent grow. Now, he volunteers in the lobby of a small Waikiki boutique hotel, Vive Hotel, every Friday at 5-7pm. I have lots of fun watching his passion and talent.

How long have you been practicing and why did you choose this path?

As an acupuncturist, I’ve been nationally certified from 1985, California licensed in 1986 and Hawaii licensed in 1988. So more than 30 years I’ve been in this field. From engineering to a career in health was a decision of wanting to help people. The big question was how did I want to help people? In college, I had joined the kung fu club and whenever we got injured, our Sifu would tell us how to treat ourselves, using herbal liniments, tuina (massage), moxa, pressure (acupuncture) points, and stretching. He knew acupuncture too. So, with his encouragement, I pursued Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM). After graduating from a TCM school in Los Angeles and getting my California license, I went to China to study more for six months. Later, after opening up my practice in Redondo Beach, I also taught at an acupuncture school until I left California in 1993. That’s when I got married and moved to China for two years, studying more acupuncture, Tai Chi and Qigong.

I know you’re teaching, could you elaborate on that?

I teach various classes including Chinese fitness, kung fu, qigong, tai chi, balance and pool exercises.

*The Chinese fitness class involves lots of stretching, strengthening, balance and is based on the kung fu warm-up exercises.

*Kung fu class includes the Chinese fitness exercises plus two-person drills, applications, and forms. It is a traditional northern style kung fu which incorporates a variety of traditional weapons.

*Qigong class is to open up one’s meridians to circulate the qi (ch’i or ki) and blood. To become more sensitive to what the body experiences, one then can feel the qi. Once one can feel it, then you can start to control it, move it, or strengthen it. Qigong is very internal.

*Tai Chi class is to learn one of the Tai Chi styles I teach. There are many styles of Tai Chi with their own characteristics. The higher level of Tai Chi is actually practicing qigong. But to get there, you learn the form first. It is commonly known as a “meditation in motion.” A Harvard study said it is “medication in motion” because of the physiological benefits that occur in the body. I say it’s all that and more. It’s also a “philosophy in motion” which refers to the yin and yang theory as applied to the body and mind.

*Balance class is usually for my patients but anyone can come. It started off to work on people’s balance but I personalize it with the exercises the person may need, to reach their physical goal whether it’s balance or something else. Usually, it’s to work on being more functional with something they cannot do.

*Pool exercise class at Rehabilitation Hospital of the Pacific. People who have some kind of physical ailment can come to this heated pool with an open ceiling. We do breathing exercises as well as exercises for strengthening, stretching, balance and agility. Sometimes, we do a Tai Chi movement in the water.

*Exercise is like nutrition. You don’t eat only one type of food. You eat a variety of food for good health. Same with exercise, you want to have a variety of exercises. Chinese fitness and kung fu are more external, more physical. Qigong is more internal, using awareness and intent of the mind. Tai Chi is both external and internal, where the physical movements can move the qi and the mind having the intent or awareness to feel it.

What’s the best way to contact you if someone is interested, is it by visiting your office or attending a class?

Most new patients and students come to me through word of mouth. If you are interested in acupuncture or a tuina (medical massage) session, or in attending a class, you can contact me through phone or text at (808) 220-0934 or email me at My clinic is in the Makiki area. I have a Thursday class at Jodo Mission on Makiki St and Sunday classes outside Kuykendall Hall at UH Manoa. First class is free for you to try it out.

Tell us about the board you recently purchased from us. What model and size is it, and how do you like its performance?

The most recent board I bought from Hawaiian South Shore was a 5’6” Puddle Fish. My fin setup is the MR twin fin. I really like how easy it is to catch a wave and how it can handle small waves and holds up in the bigger ones. It is fast, loose and very responsive. I’m still working on getting it to its full potential but it makes the rider look better than he really is!

Do you have any additional comments?

I have to thank Dave and Brett for the advice they gave me in choosing my boards and fins. Since the time I started surfing in the 70’s on no leash single fin hand shaped boards, there’s been so much innovation in surfboard and fin designs. You guys have guided me to some great boards that suit me well.

NEW RELEASE IN JULY: The Slater Design’s No Brainer

Kelly Slater and Dan Mann Want You to Stop Overthinking

When you are up and riding on a wave, the last thing you want to do is to start thinking about the board under your feet. Your board should be an extension of your body, something that you are so in tune with that you can completely stop focusing on it and just move instinctively. You want to be in the flow, naturally drawing on years of muscle memory and reacting to the wave as it unfolds in front of you, rather than wasting time analyzing and overthinking. What you want is a No Brainer—a board that requires no thought at all, that only needs you to surf it.

When Dan Mann and Kelly Slater designed the No Brainer, that was the goal—a board that felt so natural that you forget that it’s there. As Mann says, it’s a board that’s so easy to surf; you can shred it even if you don’t have a brain! The No Brainer blends Mann’s favorite groveler rocker with a tiny bit of extra flip in the nose and tail, to tailor the board to Slater’s surfing. The bottom contours feature a subtle belly V in the nose that gives way to a single concave under the chest. That single concave is also complemented by a double concave that runs nearly the entire length of the board, transitioning to spiral V as it exits the tail under the fins. This combination gives you forgiveness through the forward rails, drive off the tail, and all-around maneuverability.

A true groveler, the No Brainer is intended for all levels of surfers, from beginners to experts, in waves five feet and smaller on the face. It comes in sizes ranging from 5’0″ to 6’6″, with volume ranging from 24.6 to 49.2 liters (Slater’s personal No Brainer is a 5’4″ with 27.0 liters). Utilizing Firewire and Slater Design’s Linear Flex Technology and a five-fin box setup, the No Brainer is lightweight, reliable, progressive, and versatile—the perfect summer board.

The Making of the Waimea Bay River Break

Most of us here in Hawaii have seen footage of the standing wave at Waimea Bay, which forms when the river flows out of Waimea Valley and breaks through the beach.

Have you ever wondered when and how that standing wave forms, or how long it lasts?

We did some research into the formation of the “Waimea River Break,” and what we found out was actually pretty unsurprising.

First of all, Waimea Bay is one of the biggest waves on the North Shore—this isn’t really news to anyone. Over the summer and winter, sand gets moved around the North Shore by currents and waves (again, not exactly revelatory news), and since Waimea Bay has some of the biggest waves and strongest currents on the coast, it is no surprise that sand builds up on the beach, making it a great place for people to enjoy the sun, watch people charge huge waves in the winter, and jump off the famous Waimea Jump Rock during the summer.

Most of us also realize that winter can be a bit rainy on Oahu—just think back to February and March of this year! When the rain really gets going, Waimea River starts to flow out of the valley, but with all the sand that gets built up on the beach, the river isn’t able to empty into the bay, which is its natural endpoint. The water eventually starts to backfill the valley and the marsh behind Waimea Bay beach, which actually isn’t great for the local environment, since the river naturally wants to empty into the ocean.

Left to its own devices, the river will typically either break through on its own, or eventually dissipate as the winter rains come to an end. But with so many miscreants (aka: surfers) living on the North Shore, it’s been years since the river has been left to its own devices! Once the water gets close to breaking over the sand berm, a bunch of locals takes matters into their own hands. They dig out a trench through the berm, connect the trench to the backed up water, and within a few hours, the flowing river has torn open the beach and emptied its guts into Waimea Bay. And in the meantime, it creates a pretty fun (if not short-lived) standing wave.

The legality of digging out the river is questionable, but at the end of the day, no one really complains. After all, no one is doing anything that nature doesn’t do on its own—they are just speeding up the process so that it happens during daylight hours, when the wave can be enjoyed by everyone. (That being said, the river does usually tend to get dugout in the evening, once the authorities [i.e., lifeguards] have gone home, so the river sessions often extend until long after sunset). And everyone is welcome to come and enjoy the fun; it’s more of a community event than anything. All you need is a shovel, a board, and the willingness to work a bit for your waves—and the inside scoop on which everyone is going to show up and break the river open, of course.

Next time you see a long period of rain followed by a major flat spell on the North Shore, head on over to Waimea Bay, and you just might ride the longest wave of your life!

Reviews and Who’s Stopped By

“Moving from a 7’2 Funboard to the Harley Ingleby Moe with a thruster setup has been an exciting step up to more progressive surfing. Friends in the lineup have told me to leave the other board home as this board has proven to improve my ability to turn, add some cutbacks, and gain some speed to my surfing. As someone that qualifies for social security, those are all huge pluses. Mahalo for the excellent advice. – Mark” ⠀

Our Long time VIP customer Gabe picked up a JS Black Baron…we’ve been selling many of these. I have one and after letting 5 people try after one ride, they are blown away at how the board feels. – David

Local Pro Kapono Nahina stopped by and picked up a Ben Skinner

Hawaiian South Shore May Newsletter

I’m Going to Fall off This Ship!

When I finished high school, I was ready for some adventure. College just didn’t seem to be the answer, so I started looking around for other options. My dad was a master gunnery sergeant in the Marines and was very traditional. He had made it clear that I’ll be on my own when I turn 18, so when college didn’t work out and I decided to do something else, I hit the road. I headed for Reno, Nevada, where my aunt lived, and started working odd jobs. That got old pretty quick, so I ended up buying a Greyhound bus ticket to Riverside and joined the military.

My dad had always told me that the Marine Corp was more than I could handle, so if I were to join up, I should go for the Navy. Their training schools were the best, and besides, the Marines are actually a branch of the Navy, so I think that was a way for my dad to keep the family tradition going but couldn’t see me out on the front lines. So, I ended up enlisting in the Navy.

I eventually found myself in Japan, working on a Navy boat with around 500 people on board. I really enjoyed that experience! But then, sometime later, we moved to the Indian Ocean to do some training exercises. One day at around 7:30 in the evening, I was heading up the ladder to my workspace, when I suddenly felt the ship shake violently! The shaking continued for around 10 seconds, and then I heard banging and rumbling low down in the ship, below the surface of the water! Then the alarm sounded, and a voice on a loudspeaker yelled “This is not a drill. All hands-on, man your battle stations! This is not a drill!” I couldn’t believe it! I’d heard that announcement over the PA hundreds of times, but it had always been a drill. This time, someone told me that we had been hit by a bomb!

It was almost like being in a movie. The lights turned red, the alarms were ringing, and we all had to run to our stations. Mine was at the back of the ship and to get there, I had to exit to the outside of the ship. I swung open the door and looked into darkness. I had no idea which side of the ship had been hit! I slowly lowered my leg out the door, thinking I might be stepping out into oblivion. After what seemed like an eternity, my feet felt solid deck beneath them. I ran to my station, and don’t really remember much from the rest of the night! Our ship had caught fire, and we worked frantically to get things back to a stable condition.

It’s funny how extreme situations like that stick out in your mind. This was one of the more pivotal moments of my young life, and yet one of the only things I can remember from the night was stepping through that door and thinking “I’m going to fall off this ship!”

Getting to Know Brett

Over the past three months, we have been getting to know Hawaiian South Shore manager, Brett Martin, a little better. This month he tells us a bit about his wild years, and how surfing helped him find a healthier lifestyle.

Q: So, Brett, you have told us in the past that you earned a degree in college. What would you normally do during spring break in college?

A: Actually, I would snowboard a lot. That was a perfect time to drive up to the mountains, which was an hour or two drive. The snow was so good!  

We would also drive out to Tahoe. My good friend worked at Heavenly in Tahoe, so he would get us free lift tickets and give us a place to stay for the weekend because he was renting a place there that was super close. We would party all night and snowboard all day. Those were the days… so much fun.

Q: I heard you grew up in a place where drugs were pretty prevalent. How did you avoid falling into that trap?

A: Yeah unfortunately, drugs were pretty common where I grew up. I wish I could say that I stayed clear from drugs, but that isn’t entirely true. I did experiments here and there, which I am definitely not proud of. Luckily, I was able to pull myself out before it was too late. I have a lot of friends who weren’t so lucky. Some have been battling drug addiction ever since, and many have been in and out of jail.

It might sound a little cliché, but school and surfing helped me avoid falling into the trap of drugs.

My English teacher said something I will never forget, and that still rings true for me today. He said: “Everyone does drugs. Your drug might be your boyfriend or girlfriend. It might be a chemical or something that you smoke. Whatever it is, it’s something that brings you happiness or at least perceived happiness. The important thing is to realize this and choose a drug that will bring you the most happiness while causing the least amount of harm to you and the people around you. You’re going to do drugs, so choose your drugs wisely.”

Everyone is in pursuit of pleasure, happiness, and fulfillment. Some choose to use some form of chemical in order to obtain this pleasure. For some, it might be that special boy or girl that brings them that happiness. That drug for me is surfing. Because surfing is my drug of choice, it has not only brought me happiness when I do it but also continuously makes my life better, as well as positively affecting people around me and society as a whole.

The best drug is the one that brings you the most happiness and contributes to the well-being of society. Find that drug and use it every day.

Q: Wow, that’s a pretty heavy perspective! There are obviously drug problems both here in Hawaii and on the Mainland. But what are some of the most obvious differences to you between living in California and living here in Hawaii?

A:Clear, blue, warm water and bright, colorful plants. And there are always waves somewhere on the island!

Also, the food for sure. I don’t think there are any 7 Eleven’s in California that sell musubi or manapua.

It also seems that people are more health conscious here. A lot more people are active and want to live healthy. Also, people in Hawaii seem more environmentally conscious as well.

Best of all, the ocean water is so clear, and you can surf all year long without having to worry about getting sick from the water after it rains.

Because of that, I think that people are more in tune with nature. We also have way more holidays in Hawaii! More people seem to be pursuing what they love to do, versus being in a job that they really don’t like, and that makes them a lot of money.

There also seems to be more art. There are murals on walls all over the place!

And finally, there are lots of people riding scooters and motorcycles with no helmets, and people pile into the backs of their pickup trucks and drive around. This is illegal in California, but very normal here. I love it!

Member of the Month

This month’s Member of the Month is our VIP member, Kyle Lee. He comes into the shop full of positive energy you all can feel, it’s contagious and we love it!

In the past few months, he’s picked up a few Thunderbolt Technology boards. He’s given us several video reviews that we’ve posted on Social media. It’s awesome because after seeing the reviews, others picked up the board and are stoked because of Kyle’s review.

When and why did you initially get into surfing?

As far as I can remember, 1965-1970, my dad took me fishing with him almost daily. He taught me to whip for Moi, and I became as good as my dad.  I could not fish for more than 2 or 3 hours at a time, so I started to go into the water whenever I had enough fishing. I did not know then that I was learning something that would get me through 60+ years of my life. I was attracted to the feeling of the ocean, surfing at Bellows with two of my friends while my dad fished. That led to daily desires to get to, Kaiko’s and Diamond Head, or body surfing at Sandy’s or Makapu, or the North Shore, Ehukai and Pipeline. To put in one sentence, I was guided by a higher power to feel the best feeling I have ever experienced; Surfing Nature, Energy, Life’s stresses all released and pure stoke in the end. Wanting more and more and growing to accept less, with more quality.

Did you have a time period you laid off from surfing?

If so, when and why did you start back up?

Yes, somewhere around 1980, I was about to get arrested for the lifestyle I was choosing, I was a product of Vietnam and Woodstock. I moved to Fairfield, CA. and ended up joining the Air Force in 1984. At the most, I stopped surfing for 4 years during that period.

What is your favorite thing about surfing?

The feeling of being absorbed by nature, 4-6’ + anywhere it is firing. I caught the best Tennis courts in the past 45 years, this past October.  All about enjoying the energy. And after surfing, having a few beers to relax and dull the physical pain acquired by surfing 6-8 hours.  I’m so blessed, thank you.

Where is your favorite place to eat after surfing? What is your favorite item on the menu?

Things change all the time, but right now, I ask my girlfriend, Helene Phillips, the First Female to retire for Ocean Safety Lifeguards, with 31+ years of service. Sushi at Yanagi’s or Kabuki’s in Waimalu. If I’m closer to the Counter at Kahala Mall, we’ll go there, where I build my own Hamburger salad, with option of bison or Mahi.  If I’m on the North shore, it’s Haleiwa Joe’s for their Tenderloin Steak salad.   Rock and Roll Sushi used to be my alternate go to. No matter where you end up, food taste so good after surfing.  

What other hobbies do you have besides surfing?

I enjoy Diving, Free diving, Scuba diving with HFD Rescue for 18 + years, spearing fish for the Boy’s at the station to supplement our meals. And HFD Rescue personnel are really good at this.  Snorkeling with Helene looking for seashells anywhere I can find them. I can send you the video of all 20 years shell collecting.  And fishing, which I plan to pursue more often when I cannot physically surf. I also enjoy running and working out to keep in shape.

What type of work do you do?

Right now, I am currently working at Bellows AFS in Waimanalo as a Head Lifeguard. I retired from the Honolulu Fire Department in 2017 after 32 years of service. I spent my last 18 years there working on Rescue 2.

Tell us about the board(s) you recently purchased from us.

What model and size are it, and how do you like its performance?  

I purchased 2 HI Carbon Diamond Drives a few months ago, a 9’2” and a 9’1”. Helene and I liked both of these boards. I have not tried the 9’1” which she is very happy with. Both boards are fast and responsive. After liking these boards so much, I purchased 2 Ben Skinner Carbon boards.  Both 9’1”, the Blender for myself and the Smoothie for Helene. They both are as good as the diamond drives, and better in bigger waves.  I then purchased a HIHP 9’1” Carbon rounded square, which I’m using regularly now. It is also an excellent board.  After riding my first Tolhurst, I started selling my other boards so I could get more Tolhurst. All of these boards would be mine, but Helene absolutely enjoys surfing hers. They are not cheap, but they are Performers.  I ordered a 9’1” Carbon HI4, and that will probably be the bomb also, lyk. PS, I set them all up with HI thruster fins.

Do you have any additional comments?

Thank You Albert Dove, Gerry Lopez, Ben Aipa, Reno Abillira, Mitsu, and especially Barry Kanaiaupuni for all the boards I have enjoyed and will continue to ride. Thank Jeannie Chesser for the airbrush jobs. Thank you Ezra, Derrick, Kapono for recommending Tolhurst.  These boards won’t make you a better surfer, but I think you will Enjoy the Ride!!!

Banks Journal: Beach-Based Style for an Active Generation

Here at Hawaiian South Shore, we love a good niche brand—and we know you do too! While the big-name brands paved the way for the modern surf industry, boutique brands are the wave of the future, and one of our current favorites is Banks Journal. You may be wondering what Banks Journal is all about—is it a magazine? A place to invest your money? Actually, it’s sort of both—but mostly, it’s a surf- and beach-inspired clothing label that understands the importance of blending style with function.

Banks Journal draws its name from the sandbanks of Australia, where it was started—and, of course, from the journal that the brand publishes, capturing the essence of the surf lifestyle. Sandbanks are always changing—just like styles—and Banks Journal strives to document those changes through a combination of artistic photography, writing, and fashion.

The brainchild of Tim Cochran and Rama McCabe (who grew up in Byron Bay, Australia) and Masa Shibahara and Motoo Noda (from Tokyo), Banks Journal has been committed to sustainability since day one. The fabrics used in making the clothing use organic cotton, while the inks used in the screen printing process are PVC- and phthalate-free. Re-purposed soda bottles are turned into a polyester thread to be used in woven products, and the same process is used to create the brand’s board short line.

With such an artistic, socially aware focus, it’s only natural that the brand would attract forward-thinking athletes. The Banks Journal collective includes avant-garde individuals as Jared Mell, Dane Peterson, Brendon Gibbens, Kahana Kalama and Tom Morat. Together with Cochran, McCable, Shibahara and Noda, these personalities combine to create a brand that appeals to the earthy, artistic side in each of us—all packaged in an ocean-focused manner that resonates with our insatiable love for surf.

If you haven’t had a chance to check out the Banks Journal line, stop into the store and see what we have in stock. With spring already here and summer quickly approaching, it’s time to move into the future.

Mastering Your Breath and Ocean Rescue with Ricardo Taveira

Most of us know who Guy Hagi is—the news weather and surf report guy who is wrong half the time, but who we love anyway because he’s one of our wave-riding tribe. In fact, if you paddle out in Town during a south swell, you just might bump into Guy in the water! He’s an avid surfer, and recently did a story on another avid surfer here on Oahu—one who has taken big wave riding and preparation to the next level.

Ricardo Taveira is a Brazilian big wave surfer who has made the North Shore of Oahu his home. He runs Hawaii Eco Divers, a scuba and snorkel outfit that takes people out for underwater adventures here on Oahu. But Ricardo is equally an adept rider on the ocean’s surface, and is a standout surfer whenever Waimea Bay jumps into the XXL range. In fact, he even flew over to California in early April for his first session at Maverick’s, where he ended up scoring some bombs!

Part of the reason Ricardo is so comfortable in big waves is that he is incredibly well prepared for emergency rescues—and for the hold downs that happen numerous times per session when the waves get large. And for the past few years, he has shared his experience and preparation with the public through an apnea and big wave preparedness class.

Many of Hawaii’s best big wave surfers and watermen/women have taken this class, as he has groups in California, Brazil, Chile, and elsewhere. In fact, Ricardo has even trained the staff at the World Surf League! Pro surfers and lifeguards also take the class regularly (with lifeguards getting to do the course for free). But the course isn’t just for pros, or even aspiring big wave surfers. Everyone can benefit from the course, as it provides confidence in the water and competence when it comes to water rescue skills, first aid, and CPR.

The course also helps you learn to control your breathing, which is great both in the water and out. It even assists in stress relief for those who have lots of work- and life-related stress built up! But perhaps, most noticeable is how the course teaches you to hold your breath. Most people assume they can’t hold their breath for more than 30 seconds or a minute, but most people who take the class end up holding their breaths for more than three minutes, and some as long as five minutes! Local surfer, Roger Seibel, recently turned 58, but he isn’t close to hanging up his board shorts. Last year, he took Ricardo’s class, ended up holding his breath for over four minutes, and developed the confidence to start exploring bigger waves. This season, he paddled XL days on the outer reefs and at Waimea Bay, and can be seen out at Sunset anytime it’s cranking.

As an added bonus to the class, anyone who has done the course with Ricardo is welcomed to join future training for free, as many times as they want. And since this is something that Ricardo is passionate about, there end up being a lot of training on Oahu every year!

We will be hosting one of Ricardo’s courses here at Hawaiian South Shore on June 22 and 23. If you are interested in checking out the course, follow this link:

News, Reviews & Trends

Getting reviews helps us know how we’re doing and also let other HSS members like you check out the reviews on boards they’re interested in.  Below are some reviews via email and handwritten letters. If you submitted a review, Thank you very much, I know so many of us are busy with our daily things to do so, it means a lot when we received them. If you want to submit a review, email us

The JS is known for high-performance boards; if you’ve talked to anyone that’s ridden a JS, most people will say it’s one of the best boards they’ve ever ridden. The Black Box 3 is a small wave board, perfect for small to head high waves in gutless surf. It wide like a round nose board but still has a high-performance outline with a pulled in nose. So, if you’re looking to get a high-performance board that paddles like a round nose board, this is the one. It’s super friendly compared to other performance boards and it just glides through flat sections of the wave.

The JS is known for high-performance boards; if you’ve talked to anyone that’s ridden a JS, most people will say it’s one of the best boards they’ve ever ridden. The Black Box 3 is a small wave board, perfect for small to head high waves in gutless surf. It wide like a round nose board but still has a high-performance outline with a pulled in nose. So, if you’re looking to get a high-performance board that paddles like a round nose board, this is the one. It’s super friendly compared to other performance boards and it just glides through flat sections of the wave.

Libtech Review

We are the exclusive Hawaii Dealers for Libtech. From the first time they released the Lost X Lib collaboration, we knew that they are going to do well. Matt Biolos of Lost surfboards has been making stubby performance boards for well over 26 years before all other manufacturers started making these performance hybrid board. Matt knew that average surfers should be riding these types of board. It’s been about 10 years or so most are making boards like this, so Matt was way ahead of the times. Having them in the libtech construction makes it the perfect combination of fun surfing with tough technology that is environmentally friendly. From the planet based resign all the way down to the 100% waterproof core, these board surf, float and flex like a regular fiberglass board. They can handle windy choppy days and just glide through the chop.

Thanks heaps you guys. I live the boat and what it stands for “Eco-friendly.”  Non-petroleum based bio-plastics, no toxic cleaners, no sanding, no waste, off the grid warehouse.  Not to mention, the board surf great! Taken it up to the North Shore on several occasions and she goes, let’s find out how she handles Puerto Escondido for 3 months.

The New JS Black Baron is something that I have and it’s actually one of the first twin fin boards I really like. I’ve surfed it in some pretty decent overhead waves and some small wave waist high waves. The board first of all catches waves really easy; it’s super fast and loose in small waves. But seems to tighten up in better waves. It’s been tested and refined for the past 6 years. JS recently released a video of their team riders riding it in sloppy waist high waves to some well overhead barreling waves. The board comes in Futures and FCSII. The futures the EN is recommended, and for FCSII, the Power Twins are recommended. A friend of mine is using it with the AL Merrick 2+1 side fins and he’s been stoked on it.

Libtech only makes boards that prove hot sellers with Lost and then they decide to cooperate on a model. The NEW Model they just released is the Puddle Jumper HP. YEP, that super popular and fun to ride Puddle Fish is now available in the HP model. It’s slimmed down to be a little more performance. Since the nose is pulled in, you don’t have to choke up on the board like you have to on a larger round nose board. The swing weight is way better, so you can move the board round a lot easier. If you like the puddle jumper, then you’ll love this slimmer version. Or if you want a puddle Jumper but the one with a little less bulky looking nose, then it’s your time to pull the trigger that’s fast becoming a best seller.

Hawaiian South Shore April Newsletter


It’s the WORLDS MOST Environmentally Friendly Surfboard Made in the USA.

“If you are one of the thousands of surfers that enjoyed the Puddle Jumper Series, the PJHP allows you to take your small wave surfing to the next level.”- Matt Biolos


 A mainstay of the …Lost quiver, the Puddle Jumper HP is a revved up, slimmed down variation on the classic Puddle Jumper, designed for high performance surfing. The pulled-in nose and moved-back wide point allow the board to shred like a normal shortboard, but the volume of the Puddle Jumper is still maintained, providing paddle power and speed down the line, particularly when groveling through soft, slower sections. This board is the ultimate marriage of speed and maneuverability, bringing the fun back to summer time shredding with a high-performance groveler that is as fun to ride as it is easy to paddle.


Over the years, we all get the opportunity to witness societal changes—some that are major shifts in consciousness, and others that are smaller, almost imperceptible cultural evolutions. These are the changes that shape who we become as a community and years later, define us as a people. One change that I had a chance to observe was somewhere between a tiny change and a major shift—a change that happened in Okinawa in the 1970’s. In 1978, the Okinawan government had to change the side of the road that people drove on. Okinawa actually drove on the left-hand side of the road, the same as the rest of Japan. When it went under the control of the United States on June 24, 1945, it was made to drive on the right. Even after Okinawa returned to Japanese control in 1972, it still had its traffic driving on the right for six years due to delays in the handover to Japan. In accordance with the Vienna Convention on Road Traffic that restricts each country to have only one traffic direction, all the traffic in Okinawa was changed back to driving on the left on July 30, 1978. It is one of very few places to have changed from right- to left- traffic in the late twentieth century. The day symbolized Okinawa’s return to Japan. The day of the change was called “Nana San Maru,” which referred to the number 730—the date the change was scheduled to happen (July 30). All traffic, except emergency vehicles, was banned after 10pm July 29, 1978. Then eight hours after, at 6am July 30, traffic resumed back to the left-hand side. Within the eight-hour timeframe, bus signs were relocated, and traffic signs changed. A thousand buses and 5,000 taxis were replaced. 300,000 vehicle headlights were changed. We lived near a bus station; the bus companies rolled out new buses with the passenger door on the other side. I watched mesmerized as all the busses started driving in the opposite direction! I remember for several months after on the news there were lots of traffic accidents. What historical changes have you had the chance to observe in your lifetime? Spend some time reflecting on these changes. Share with your family and friends how they made you feel and affected your life. Never forget how unique the time is that we are living in. Just think—15 years ago, most of us hadn’t even heard of smartphones, and yet there’s a good chance that you are reading this article on one right now. A decade from now, there’s no telling what our society will look like!

I can hold my breath for 2 minutes and 37 seconds!

Join The two-day Class at Hawaiian South Shore

Saturday, June 22nd, 2019 @ 4pm

Sunday, June 23rd, 2019 @ 4pm

Two-day course costs only $189 plus tax

A little over a year ago I attended the Apnea Surf Survival Course and after the second day of class I was able to hold my breath for 2 minutes and 37 seconds! Before I went through the Apnea Surf Survival Course, I would’ve never imagined that I could hold my breath that long! 

Why did I take the class? I wanted some guidance from an expert who could give me advice for when I wipe out and get held down.Ricardo of Hawaii Eco Divers has trained the best in the world. Matter of fact, we had some famous big wave riders in our class and some of the regulars that surf Waimea retraining with us! It was really cool to see Liam McNamura retaking the class. He and his crew actually have surf survival class (which is a next level training course). This just goes to prove the legitimacy of the Apnea & Surf Survival class.

What is Apnea? According to Ricardo of Hawaii Eco Divers, Apnea is the momentary suspension of external breathing, more commonly known as holding one’s breath. During apnea, there is sufficient oxygen in the lungs and blood stream to allow a person to stop breathing for several minutes while remaining conscious.

Every surfer should take this course as it promotes personal wellness and safety in the water. Even the pros and prominent members of the surfing community like Eddie Aikau or Billabong’s team manager and surfer, Rainos Hayes have taken this course! 

To sign up online use this URL: 

Questions? Email us at: or text us 808-400-4488. 


Slater’s Newest Surfboard Designer

When Kelly Slater calls you up and asks you to design a board for him, you know you have made it as a shaper. However, when Slater rides that board and then decides to add it to the Slater Designs line, you really know you have done something special. That’s exactly what happened to Dann Mann this year, when his FRK design became the latest in the Slater Designs arsenal. Mann had been around a long time before Slater invited him to join the SD team—in fact, he’s been a master shaper for nearly two decades! 

The Coronado-based shaper has been building boards since 1996, under his own label “Mannkine” and for industry leader Channel Islands. He’s also glassed for Rusty, Xanadu, and Joel Tudor. In other words, this guy has credentials. Mann’s reputation really began to develop after the release of some of his early Firewire offerings, which became crowd favorites with the summertime grovel crowd. The Sweet Potato, Baked Potato, and Chumlee are three very different boards with some very similar characteristics—all of which are designed to make them super fun and super-fast. Wide, flat, and round, these boards provide trim speed in even the flattest and fastest of waves but compensate for their extreme width with user-friendly curves that make the boards super exciting to ride. When combined with Firewire’s lightweight, extra-strong construction, all three of these boards became great options for surfers looking for a silver bullet to get them through summer—and as it turns out, there were a lot of those types of surfers. 

As Mann’s shapes gained popularity, so did their shaper, and in 2015 Slater sent in a request for a custom design. The result was the FRK, a board that is set to revolutionize high-performance once again, under the feet of the man who has redefined what high performance is numerous times throughout his storied career. If Slater trusts Mann to build his boards, then so do we, so Hawaiian South Shore is excited to be getting a shipment of Mann’s Slater Designs FRKs this next month. Whether you are looking for a standard shortboard like the FRK or a stubby, ethereal grovel-stick like the Sweet Potato, Mann knows what it takes to make a board tick; making him a great resource for a surfer looking to change things up. 


This spring, we are getting to know Hawaiian South Shore manager Brett Martin a little better through monthly conversations about the priorities and life decisions that led to him joining the family here at HSS. This month, Brett tells us about his early experiences surfing in Hawaii, and what surf spots on Oahu have become his favorite. 

What was your first surfing experience in Hawaii and what were the conditions? 

My first surfing experience in Hawaii was at Canoes, surfing a 9’0” longboard with a 2+1 setup that I borrowed from my brother. My older brother Brandon took me there the day after I arrived in Hawaii. He knew Canoes was a pretty mellow wave, so it was a good introductory wave for me here in Hawaii. Plus, it was a personal favorite of his. I’m super glad he took me there, because I had the fearful impression that every break in Hawaii was like Pipeline: super big, powerful and shallow. It was pretty nice to see Canoes first—a break that looked more like a playful water park than anything else. I was amazed at how clear and glassy the water was. It almost seemed like I was in a swimming pool. The waves that day were waist- to chest-high—not too big, but still fun. It was nothing like what I was used to surfing in California. It was a little more crowded than what I was used to as well, and the paddle out was a little further than the waves I normally surfed in California. However, I was still able to catch waves and have fun. My brother loved Canoes, and I quickly came to understand why. I’m super stoked that Canoes was my first surf experience in Hawaii. 

When was your first day surfing big waves? 

My first day surfing big waves was when I surfed Haleiwa for the first time. I remember reading the surf report, and it said head-high to three feet overhead. Although that may not be big for some people, it was definitely big for me, especially at that time. Most of the breaks that I had surfed before that in California were barely ever head-high. I remember sitting on the beach for a while before paddling out, watching others surf. I just kept on telling myself, “I have to paddle out and catch a least one wave. I did not drive all this way to not paddle out.” The regret of not paddling out haunted me even more than my fear! So I watched where others were paddling out, and followed them. Once out there, I was so nervous, I remember paddling for a few pretty big ones and pulling back right at the last minute, right before going over the falls. I finally worked up enough courage to just go for it. The first one I actually went for, I somehow made, and I was so stoked. Going that vertical, that fast all at once and making it down the line was an adrenaline rush like nothing I’ve ever experienced before. I was hooked from that point on. To this day I still don’t surf anything crazy big, but I do like waves that are well overhead. No matter how badly I get pounded, I still continue to paddle out beyond my comfort zone in hopes of getting more of that adrenaline rush. 

Why did you start surfing Lighthouse and how did you decide on that being your main go-to spot? 

I think Lighthouse has become my favorite because I have had so many great sessions there. The first time I ever surfed there, I scored. It was only me and one other guy out. The waves were head-high and consistent. It was a little windy, but the wind was helping it more than hurting it because it added wind swell, which made it bigger than any other spot in town that day. Ever since that time, it seems like Lighthouse is the place where I always have the most fun. I think that became my main go-to spot because it was the most convenient and consistent. It’s a short drive from my house, and not a super far paddle out. When I surf there are usually only three to five guys out at the most. Plus, I’m a regular-footed surfer and Lighthouse is mostly a right, and I have way more fun surfing frontside. And it just always seems to have waves, even when Town is flat everywhere else. 


Our VIP member of the month, Clyde, is someone I see in the mornings heading out to surf. I sometimes sneak over to the point and catch a few waves before heading back down a few breaks over. He’s Super energetic and radiates with positive energy. As a matter of fact, it’s because of Clyde I started practicing Yoga again. 

When and why did you initially get into surfing? 

I started surfing in 1972 in Waikiki. Shortboards were just becoming popular at that time. Several of my friends were surfing and I guess it was the cool thing to do. Once I got into it, I was stoked and it became my lifelong passion. 

Did you have a time period you laid off from surfing? If so, when and why did you start back up? 

I have never really laid off from surfing. I was surfing a lot before I moved to Palo Alto/ Santa Clara for work back in 2008. When I lived there, I surfed maybe 6 times a month because the drive was far, and the water was cold. The waves were fun in Santa Cruz and there were spots all the way up the coastline to San Francisco. So, if anything that was a time period when I slowed down. I also picked up yoga, which made up for the lost time in the water. When I moved back to Hawaii in 2012, I picked the pace back up and started to surf Kewalo Point regularly again. Hard to beat the consistency of the waves here in Hawaii and the warm water! 

What is your favorite thing about surfing? 

Good empty surf with just a few friends. You are away from everything and your mind is just focused on the present when you are riding a wave. Life is short – got to enjoy what we are blessed with here in Hawaii; surrounded by water and the best waves in the world! 

Where is your favorite place to eat after surfing? What is your favorite item on the menu? 

I was the ‘Rainbow Drive In’ kind of guy when I was younger. In the mainland, I loved Mexican taquerias after a surf. No favorites now. I would rather save my appetite for dinner and go eat at a good Japanese Izakaya. I can survive the rest of my life on just Japanese, Mexican, and Korean food! Oh yeah, I love the smoothies from Lanikai Juice too! 

What other hobbies do you have besides surfing? 

Yoga. If you haven’t tried it, do it. One of the best things to compliment your surfing. A lot of surfers do it. You build strength, flexibility, and mental awareness from yoga. If you want to enjoy surfing for 30+ more years… yoga! 

What type of work do you do? 

I am in the Financial Services/Planning industry. I love my job and I enjoy the people I work with. Surfing and yoga is a great balance for my work. 

Tell us about the board(s) you recently purchased from us. What model and size is it, and how do you like its performance. 

I bought a number of boards from Hawaiian South Shore but my favorites are the 5’5 Lost RNF Retrofish, 5’4 Seaside, 5’10 JS Blakbox 2, and 5’9 JS Blakbox 3. The Retrofish and Seaside are fun in a small town surf and the JS boards have a lot of speed. I’ve always received great service from Brett, David, and Sean. It’s funny because I was referred to Hawaiian South Shore by another surf shop here in town. I was looking for a fin, they didn’t have it, and they told me to check out Hawaiian South Shore because they have a lot of fins. I walked in there, sure enough found the fin, and then saw all the sick boards in there. Thank you Hawaiian South Shore for bringing in some of the best surfboards and gear from around the world – you guys are the best! 


While being a surfer has long been associated with being fit and tan, we don’t exactly have a celebrated history of training. Unlike other athletes who cross-train and do cardio workouts to improve their performance on the court or in the field; surfers were better known for partying than for running, stretching, and lifting weights. Surfing was quite the counter-culture, and the beach lifestyle lent itself more to drinking and smoking herb than it did eating a macrobiotic diet and practicing yoga. As far as we were concerned, the best training for surfing was surfing—and the rest of the time, we intended to get loose. But over the past decade or so, that is beginning to change. Starting with pro surfers like Taylor Knox and Mick Fanning and continued by the new crop of world tour competitors and big wave chargers, training for surfing has become quite popular. Non-pros have jumped on the bandwagon as well! It seems like everyone who surfs also paddles, runs, bikes, swims, practices yoga, does pilates, CrossFit, or something else to keep themselves fit and limber for their surf sessions. If you haven’t jumped on the training-for-surf bandwagon or if your busy lifestyle simply doesn’t afford you the time to train full time, you can still tune your body up for your next surf with a short 15-minute surfing fitness program. Dig in and follow along as we get you fit for life and for wave riding! 

Warm up (3 minutes): Start with some gentle movement to get your blood flowing, then eventually start moving a bit faster and with more energy. You can warm up by jogging around the yard, doing jumping jacks, jump roping, or any other mild cardiovascular exercise that doesn’t require you to move far from your home or wherever you are training. 

Pushups (3 minutes): Regardless of your fitness level, try to incorporate some pushups into your workout. At first you might only do a few—or you might end up doing modified pushups when you first start—but eventually you will get stronger and your reps will increase. Do two sets of pushups at whatever number of reps feels good for you. Remember to be very aware of your shoulders and any potential stress or injury. Surfers do a repetitive motion activity with our shoulders (paddling), we need to be careful not to exacerbate any mechanical issues such as rotator cuff strains or impingements. While you do need to exert effort to get stronger, it is important to know the difference between unhealthy pain related to injury and healthy suffering for the sake of fitness 

Triceps dips (3 minutes): When it comes to paddling, surfers actually use our triceps more than our biceps, so it’s a good idea to make sure your triceps are strong and ready for action when you jump on a board. Do two sets of triceps dips by placing your palms backwards on the edge of a chair and your feet on the ground in front of the chair, lower yourself toward the ground and then lift yourself back up. As with pushups, you may not be able to do a lot of these when you first start, but after awhile you will find yourself getting stronger and your reps will increase. 

Crunches or planks (3 minutes): The core is at the center of everything we do, and is an integral part of any athletic movement—especially surfing; which involves a lot of lower back arching, twisting, and bending. While our lower backs will naturally be strong from paddling, it is important to balance them out with strong abdominal muscles. Add a few minutes of crunches or planks to your routine to strengthen your core. 

Stretch (3 minutes): As a cool down at the end of your workout, do some mild stretches to make sure you counteract any over-tightness of your muscles. Stretch your shoulders and arms, which will likely be tight after your workout. Also stretch out your lower back, your hamstrings, and your hips, as these are areas that often suffer from tightness. (For more stretches that help you surf better, check out our monthly yoga poses.) When we think of training, we often think only about doing exercises. But it’s important to understand that training actually has three parts: exertion, recovery, and nutrition. If you do your workout routine every day without rest, your muscles won’t have an opportunity to rebuild and recover after you break them down with your training. Schedule rest days into your routine, and make sure you are eating healthy, whole foods that provide all of the nutrients, protein, healthy fats, and healthy carbs that you need to rebuild and restock.


John Thank you very much for the review. We are stoked you’re enjoying the Firewire Seaside! @surf808allday (John) Thanks for the help on the decision and the Aloha you guys have. The board was the best purchase I made for a short board it catches everything and is super fast down the line. thanks @ hwnsouthshore! 

CJ Nelson Sprout

@hwnsouthshore – Thanks Rufus! I’m stoked you got to demo it and see for yourself how great this board is before getting it. You loved it so much, there was no way you couldn’t get it. Enjoy your new 9’6 CJ Nelson Sprout!  @ruftuf @hwnsouthshore best surf shop ever! Thank you for all the help with narrowing down to the right board. I had one of the best surf days this past weekend.

CJ Nelson 10′ Classic

I’ve had my eye on this board for a while. Two of my friends also have a 10’ classic. I found myself always asking to switch boards w/ them whenever I saw them in the lineup. So when I saw on an Instagram post on this new Classic they got in that was all white with carbon fiber rails, I know that it was calling me. The board is so much Fun! It is my new go to board. It paddle like butter, getting me on the wave way before anyone else which is a bonus in crowded town line ups. Even though it’s so long I can still perform turns in critical sections of the wave and hold long noserides in the pocket.

Firewire- “It’s one of our best selling small wave boards”

Tomo’s EVO is a modern take on the classic double-ender, with a nearly symmetrical nose and tail. A tweaked-out version of the MPH, the EVO has softer design elements and more curve in the template to make it forgiving and maneuverable in the pocket. While the EVO also has a wider center point, allowing it to thrive in smaller, more gutless waves, like most Tomo designs, it also does well in overhead surf. The board’s bottom contours are quite unique, with a “double inside single concave into split quad concave” planing hull that gives the board extra lift and speed. Due to the responsive nature of the board, it becomes incredibly maneuverable as soon as it is put on rail. The EVO is intended to be ridden as small as possible, and is available from 4’8” to 6’4”. Don’t let the short length turn you off— there is a ton of volume packed into these boards, with the 4’8” running nearly 17 liters and the 6’4” topping out at 50 liters! While the EVO is available in all three of Firewire’s proprietary construction styles, we really like the Helium build. The Helium offers the lightest foam in the Firewire arsenal, with new balsa/paulownia rails for flex and rigidity. A new deckskin material has been introduced to supplement the typical expanded lifespan of Firewire boards. All bolstered by the gentle compression below your feet that has been added to give boards that PU feel.

Hawaiian South Shore March Newsletter


David Kelly | Owner, Hawaiian South Shore

The other morning when I was getting ready to surf, I heard some music playing. I looked around, and realized the music was coming from the docks. I could see a group of people doing calisthenics, and it appeared that they were doing it in time to the radio music! This reminded me of when I was growing up in Okinawa. Every morning during summer break at 6:30a.m., we  would all  line up at the community center (“kominkan”) and do something called radio taiso (“radio exercise”). We would follow along with this radio program, doing calisthenics as directed by the broadcast. Afterwards, we would have little report cards that would be stamped and have some comments added into them; then we would go on our way. After we completed all the classes at the end of summer, they would give each kid prizes for attending. From what I understand, many local  businesses  help  sponsor the morning exercise with gifts. I think it’s a really cool idea, it prompts kids to learn responsibility and rewards them in the end.

It definitely helps kids start their day early and maybe gives them some incentive to get their summer homework done early…yes, Japanese kids have daily homework assignments during their summer break. It’s structured to give them daily discipline so they can enter the work force as responsible adults. As it turns out, radio exercise didn’t start in Japan—it started in the US in the 1920’s. Metlife sponsored a 15-minute radio calisthenics program that the public could follow along to. The program never became very popular in the US, and eventually faded out. But some visiting Japanese postal insurance workers witnessed this activity and took it back to Japan, where it became quite popular. In 1952, Japan’s national radio started a radio taiso program. It became

a daily activity for practically the entire population until around the time of World War II.Today, radio taiso is still widely practiced in schools all around Japan. It serves as a warm-up for
physical education classes, and also as a way to start big events. Some companies also still encourage daily radio taiso sessions  for their employees—and I think that must be what I observed happening at Kewalos the other day! It’s fun to see how culture spreads from place to place, and how some things fade out while others remain popular. It’s pretty crazy to think that I used to do daily radio taiso decades ago as a child in Japan, and years later   I saw a bunch of people doing it in downtown Honolulu! I guess that just goes to show the power of tradition, and the importance of exercise!


Brett Martin is the Manager of Hawaiian South Shore, and more often than not he is the smiling face you see behind the counter when you come in for a visit. Whether you are looking for a new board, a bar of wax, or just some friendly advice; Brett is the guy to talk to. This is why we want to help our HSS Ohana get to know him better through a series of interviews. This month, Brett tells us what inspired him to first move to Hawaii, and how the move impacted his life.

Q: So, Brett, why did you first decide to move to Hawaii? A: Well, to be honest, I had an opportunity and I took it! My brother lived here, so I had a place to stay. I also had some money saved up, so I could afford to be out of work for a month or so. Plus, I had just completed my bachelor’s degree, so I no longer had school- related obligations like exams and papers. I felt it was time to experience a completely new environment. I had barely traveled at all, outside of where I grew up in California. In fact, before I moved to Hawaii I had never even been on a plane. Flying to Hawaii was my first plane ride ever! What better reason to take your first plane ride then to move to Hawaii, a tropical paradise with waves all year round? This is probably the closest I’ll ever get to my own endless summer. Even though I didn’t really have any job or career prospects lined  up before the move, I just followed my heart, went for it and hoped for the best.

Q: Wow, what an adventure! But of course, you had found a job once you got here. What was your first job when you moved to Hawaii?

A: My first job was a Sales Associate at Old Navy Ala Moana. That was the first place to call me back after I applied. The job was only part- time, but I figured it was something at least. Meanwhile, I applied to other places in hopes of finding a more suitable full-time position that would better utilize my education and allow me to afford to find my own place to live, so I wasn’t such a burden on my brother (who was letting me stay with him at the time).
Luckily, I was able to transition into a full-time job at Old Navy. I got promoted to the management level pretty fast. Within four months I was promoted to a Pricing Specialist, which was pretty much leading a team that was updating prices and marketing. There was always a new sale going on at Old Navy, so there was plenty of work for me to do. I did really well in that position and ended up receiving a second promotion to Operations Manager less than a year later. Since I received an increase in my pay from the promotions, I was able to afford to move out of my brother’s place. It was perfect timing, because right after I moved out of his place, he packed up and moved back to California to pursue his dream of becoming a fire fighter. I really lucked out with my first job at Old Navy. I enjoyed it and I was able to grow there. The timing of everything (with getting promoted) couldn’t have been better! Sure, there were struggles and obstacles (as there are with all jobs), but I was able to overcome them and eventually earn enough to support my dream of living in Hawaii without having to juggle multiple part- time jobs in order to make it here. Plus, the experience that I gained in management prepared me for my job here at Hawaiian South Shore, which is basically my dream job!


Jeff Ho

Our customer of the month is Jeff, a surfer and martial arts practitioner who found his way back to health through activity. Jeff first started surfing in high school. He had moved to Colorado from Hawaii when he was five and snowboarded there. He also body boarded whenever he was back in Hawaii visiting, but never really got into surfing. Then around his senior year in high school he came back to Hawaii and started to surf a bit more. But life got in the way, and after moving away again for work, he eventually let surfing go.

In 2007, Jeff moved back to Hawaii for good. At the time he was 200 pounds—what he describes as pretty out of shape. But watching other people surfing made him decide he wanted to get back into shape and back in the water. He bought a board and dove backinto surfing, while at the same time exploring the Chinese martial art practice of bagua. He even went to China for a more intensive instruction in bagua, where he was adopted by his teacher and instructed not only in the physical movements, but also the principles of Taoism and non-action. The combined activity of surfing and bagua helped Jeff lose 40 pounds and get back to a healthy state. His blood pressure went down, he is stronger and more flexible, and he feels 10 years younger. That renewed energy has allowed him to keep up with his kids, who also practice bagua. In fact, the whole family practices, with his wife teaching the kids (according to bagua tradition, fathers are not supposed to teach their children, due to the fact that there are striking movements, and it can be difficult for children not to emotionally internalize strikes received from their fathers during martial arts practice.) Jeff finds that there are many parallels between bagua and surfing, particularly related to the philosophies of non-action using natural force and energy rather than trying to create your own. Working with nature rather than against it leads to more graceful and efficient movement. That comes in handy when Jeff is out at Diamond Head riding his new 5′ 11″ Cymatic that he picked up from the shop recently. The super-charged metabolism that results from surfing and practicing bagua also comes in handy when Jeff stops by Rainbow Drive-in for a post-surf meal! We always love when Jeff stops into the shop to talk to us about a story, and he enjoys the Hawaiian South Shore experience too. In this age of online shopping and Amazon, he says that it’s refreshing to be able to come into a shop where the staff knows you and connects with you on a person-to-person level. We couldn’t agree more and look forward to seeing you all in the shop sometime this month! Every surfer should take this class. Learn how to handle a whip out, hold your breath with confidence and learn what do when your surf buddy is in trouble.


2 DAY COURSE $189 | June 22nd and 23rd | Text us: 808.400.4489

As surfers, we immerse ourselves daily in a huge natural expanse that is infinitely larger than we are. The ocean is powerful and unpredictable. The inherent danger that it poses to our well-being is surely part of the appeal of surfing—it gives us a feeling of living on the edge. However, most of us probably don’t want to get too close to the edge. Instead we want to get a little taste of adventure, and then still make it home safely. In other words, we might paddle out when the waves are big and scary, but we don’t necessarily have a death wish. One of the best ways to ensure that you make it safely to shore after a heavy session is to be confident in your abilities as a waterman or woman. This of course includes paddle strength and ocean awareness, but it also includes the ability to remain calm under duress, and to hold our breaths long enough to survive big hold downs. Ricardo’s apnea and surf safety class involves coursework, dry-land instruction and exercises, and water instruction and exercises. We will be hosting a two-day class at Hawaiian South Shore on June 22nd and 23rd. The dry-land portion of the class will be held in our shop on the 22nd, and the water instruction will be held at Ala Moana Beach Park on the 23rd. While the water instruction won’t be quite as intense as what Ricardo offers to his lifeguard and pro surfer students, most people will still be able to hold their breaths for at least two minutes by the end of the course. One of these great benefits of this apnea and surf safety course is the fact that everyone who attends is welcome to attend any future apnea courses that Ricardo teaches for free. In other words, you can brush up on your skills and improve your comfort in the water as many times as you want, but only have to pay one time (the two-day course costs $189 plus tax!) After doing this course last year, I can say with confidence that it has helped me improve my comfort and competency in the water. It has made me a better surfer, and the knowledge that I gained through the course is something that I take with me every time I paddle out. I’ll be doing the course again this summer and hope you will too!


As surfers, we tend to do a lot of repetitive motion and spend a lot of time in certain positions that can create imbalances in our bodies. Two of these—the arched-back paddle position and standing on a board with our feet perpendicular to the stringer (often with the majority of our weight and power on our back foot, and with our front foot turned ever so slightly forward)—create tightness and imbalance in our hips. This can affect our ability to surf and do other activities well, and also contribute to lower back pain. Thus, it only makes sense that surfers should spend a bit of time every day loosening up our hips and ensuring that they are flexible and healthy. Our monthly yoga pose does exactly that and should become a part of your daily routine. Five minutes in the morning and evening will do wonders for your hip flexibility—and you might as well do five minutes on the beach before you paddle out as well. It’s a relaxing pose, and nothing gets you in the mood for some waves like lying in the sand! Supta aginstambhasana (also known as reclined double pigeon or reclined fire log pose) is a passive stretch that allows gravity to do most of the work- but this doesn’t mean it’s easy. Prepare for the pose by lying on your back and getting comfortable. Do some deep, focused breathing to get yourself settled, both physically and mentally. Then hug your knees to your chest and pull them toward you with your arms. Rock back and forth along your spine a few times until you come up to a seated position. Start in a simple cross-legged seat. Then, with the help of your hands slide your left ankle on top of your right knee/thigh so that your lower left leg is stacked on top of your lower right leg. Make sure that your left ankle does not settle into the crease of your right knee—it should almost feel like your left foot is hanging off the side of your right thigh. With your legs in this position, slowly lie down on your back and breathe deeply. If you have any knee concerns (such as medial meniscus or MCL injury), move carefully and cautiously. This pose, or any pose for that matter, is not worth reinjuring yourself. You can lessen the intensity of this pose in two ways:

  1. Roll up two towels separately, and prop one under each knee/thigh.
  2. Maintain the initial cross-leg shape with one shin set in front of the other, instead of stacked on top of each other.

You may find that your hips are quite tight, and that the legs cannot lie flat on top of each other. This is not a problem! We all have different bodies and levels of flexibility. Remember you only need to go as far as it takes to feel the stretch. Someone with more range of motion may need to go a little further, whereas someone with less range of motion doesn’t need to go as far to feel that sensation. No matter where you are on that scale, don’t forget to breathe steadily. The longer you stay in reclined double pigeon, the deeper you will feel yourself settling into this pose. You may feel a release in your hips, back, and buttocks, and find that your legs are gradually able to sink lower than when you began. Hold the pose for two minutes, breathing deeply and slowly the entire time. Then gently release the legs so that they’re both extended out on the ground once again and repeat the pose with the other side (left leg under and right leg over). Once you’ve done both sides, return to shavasana (corpse pose), return to shavasana (corpse pose), which is simply lying on your back with your legs extended comfortably on the ground. Close your eyes and breathe deeply as you feel the spaciousness in your hips. Take a few more breaths as you consciously focus on softening all of the muscles in your body, starting at your feet and moving up toward your head. Then, once you are fully relaxed, slowly roll to one side and use your hands to press yourself up to a sitting position. From there, you are ready to start you day, paddle out for a surf, or crawl into bed- it all just depends on what you have planned after your stretch! Kilty Inafuku teaches yoga classes on the North Shore (at the North Shore Yoga Co-Op and Paumalu Yoga), in Honolulu (at Power Yoga Hawaii Piikoi), and in Kailua (at Yoga by the Sea). She also hosts and guest teaches at various yoga events on the island and leads retreats both in Hawaii and overseas. For more information, visit


Over the years, surfing has had a wide variety of characters, ranging from chargers and contenders to kooks and clowns. While these luminaries have worn numerous coats as surfers, shapers, documentarians, and innovators, true renaissance men have been few and far between. But Hawaii currently has a true renaissance man in its ranks, a surfer who brings together academia, philosophy, environmentalism, innovation, athleticism, and marketability.

Clifford Kapono grew up on the big island and comes from a respected Hawaiian family. While he was a talented surfer growing up, his family emphasized the importance of education. After graduating from Kamehameha High School, Cliff earned an undergraduate degree, then decided to pursue post-graduate work. He eventually ended up at Scripps in San Diego, where he earned a PhD in chemistry while dominating local breaks such as Blacks Beach. In the process, he gained a lot of attention as an environmentalist, and started the Surfer Biome Project, where he tested surfers’ poop to assess the bacteria present in our bodies and whether there are any similarities between us.

When Cliff finished his PhD, he wanted to find a way to bring his message of environmentalism to the surf world at large. He already had an audience with the academics but needed a way to reach young people who didn’t naturally gravitate to scholarly journals. That opportunity presented itself when Vissla picked Cliff up as a team rider. Cliff rips on just about anything, styling on logs and alias, charging huge Jaws and Mavs, steezing through slabby pits and boosting airs at will, so he was a natural fit for the free-thinking Vissla family. But he also continues his work as a scientist, writing grants and doing lab work that ranges from bacterial testing to reef mapping to gene splicing and environmental studies. At the same time, Cliff has joined the faculty at UH, and will be teaching surf-themed, environmentally focused classes there this year.

Cliff’s career as a professional surfer has really taken off over the past few years. His surf edits regularly pop up on the major websites (such as Stab, Magicseaweed, and Surfline), he was recently profiled by The Surfers Journal, he is quoted and featured in practically every environmentally themed surf article that is released and was recently invited to Kelly Slater’s Surf Ranch to consult with the WSL and the environmental arm of their corporation. But for all the fanfare, Cliff is a humble, thoughtful, unassuming local boy who simply wants to score fun waves with friends, bring the people of Hawaii together, and make a positive difference in the world. He splits his time between Big Island, Maui, and Oahu, where he spends time with his girlfriend, who is also a PhD scientist, Hawaiian cultural advocate, world-class long boarder, and navigator on the Hokuleia.

Next time you are on the shoulder at Pipe and see a crazy-haired Hawaiian in Vissla shorts rolling in to the second reef or paddling out at Bowls and see him perched on the nose of a 10′ 6′ log- throw Cliff a shaka and talk a bit of story. You aren’t likely to find a more friendly guy in the water.


JS Industries has been a leading surfboard brand for years, and their recent HyFi technology has taken JS boards to the next level. This innovative epoxy construction combines the best of durability, flex patterns, responsiveness, and light weight to create boards that simply perform better. The lively feel of the boards is miles ahead of other epoxy constructions and is actually preferred by many pros who typically only like the feel of PU. The strength and ding- resistance of the boards seem almost counter-intuitive when you feel how light they are; which is exactly what makes this construction process so special. JS has been slowly expanding their inventory to include more models that feature the HyFi construction. Here at Hawaiian South Shore, we are excited about the fact that we will be the first retailer in the world to carry the BlackBox 3 Swallow Tail in HyFi. The BlackBox 3 is one of JS’s most popular designs, and has been recently revamped for softer, weaker waves, making it a great shred- stick for when conditions are a bit sub-par. Additional planning area in the nose and added foam under the chest adds speed, while the wide point has been moved forward and combined with a swallow tail that creates a straight rail for more down-the-line speed and drive. This board is a great daily groveler for the average surfer, or a good step-down for pros looking to spice up their performance in below-average waves. We have been excited about the BlackBox 3 Swallow Tail ever since the new design was released and ordered a bunch for the shop awhile ago. Since making our order, JS has been convinced to release the board in the HyFi construction, and we will be the first shop ever to receive these upgraded boards. With the latest groveler shape in the best, most high-tech epoxy construction on the market, the BLackBox 3 Swallow Tail in HyFi is the ultimate summer board- and summer is just around the corner!

The Firewire Seaside’s are blowing up. Here’s Joy with her new 5′ 4″. I’m sure she’ll be ripping it up park side.

Joe picked a CJ Nelson 9′ 6″ Sprout he rode it and he was so stoked to pick up a 10′ Sprout Carbon/Inegra too.

Our good friend Zachary Knighton who stars on Magnum PI as “Rick” stopped in and grabbed himself a 8′ 3″ CJ Nelson Colapintail. He’s actually been eyeing this board for a few months. He has a CJ Classic and a CJ Sprout which was used in a few scenes on Magnum PI. He demoed our 8′ 3″ and he said if the show gest approved for another season, he’s going to get this baby…and what do you know…they are here for another season. Super stoked for him and the crew. Rose on the ABC comedy series Happy Ending, in 2007. He also starred in the horror film remake, The Hitcher.