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Hawaiian South Shore January Newsletter

MY THOUGHTS FOR 2019 AND BEYOND! THE LIFE EXTENDER

David Kelly | Owner, Hawaiian South Shore

As the calendar switches over to a new year, many of us start to think about time and age. Specifically, we look at how old we are and how much time we have left. If you were to ask the average person how long they thought they were going to live, most would probably tell you somewhere between 70 and 100 years. Recently, I listened to a podcast and read an interesting book about the lifetime extender exercise. The author talks about how he decided that he wants to live 156 years so that he can see the beginning of a new century. He lives his life as if he is going to live that long.

The author is quick to point out that he might not actually live to be 156, but even if he doesn’t, he isn’t too fussed about the fact. The point of the exercise is to change your perspective toward life and death, and to stop thinking certain ways because society or science or your family history tells you to. Instead, you choose for yourself how you are going to live your life. If your life expectancy was 150 years instead of 75, how would you live differently? Those in their 50’s would still be in the first third of their lives as young adults! Which means, they would arguably be doing young adult things and living with a young adult mindset. Instead of allowing themselves to become lazy, complacent and out of shape, people would be attacking life with energy and excitement. They’d be training to stay fit, having adventures and seeking out excitement.

The irony of course, is that doing these types of “young adult” things is exactly what keeps people young. Someone once said, “that you don’t stop playing when you get old, but that you get old when you stop playing”. Even if it isn’t possible to live to be 156 years old, the point of this exercise is to help us learn to live as if we were going to. Instead of thinking about life as rapidly coming to an end, we should be celebrating every day we have and planning exciting adventures for our futures. These adventures may include waves, trips to new places or welcoming new members to our family (such as grandchildren). By living as if we have a lot of life to live (but without taking our time for granted) we will end up living our lives to the fullest and staying rooted in the present and being active and healthy. We will eat better and exercise more because that’s what you must do to live to 156. Most importantly, we will approach life with the fresh perspective of a young person, while at the same time benefitting from the wisdom of age and experience.

I really liked and enjoyed what this book and podcast had to say. The reality is that very few of us actually feel as old as we are. As milestone birthdays come and go, it’s often a surprise to us. I know people who are 40, 50, 60 and even 70 that feel like they are still in their early 20’s. I say it’s time we start acting like we are as young as we feel. Let’s start believing that our bodies have a hundred more years in them and that our nagging injuries, aches and pains can be healed through healthy living, stretching and activity. Pretty soon, our bodies will start to react to the messages our minds are telling our bodies and the next thing you know, we will feel younger, not only in spirit, but in body as well.

Whether you are still a young person or someone who is approaching middle-age or even to retire, there’s no better time than now to start living like you’re just getting started in life. Who knows, with a change in perspective and a new lease on life, your best surfing years might still be ahead of you!

BRETT UPDATE ON SURF RANCH

Our store manager, Brett, received a golden ticket a few months ago inviting him to Kelly Slater’s Surf Ranch. The golden ticket was sent to him by FCS for helping Hawaiian South Shore become the most successful fin retailer in our region. Brett just got back from California and is still fresh off his freshwater session. We sat down for a chat to see how good Slater’s waves really are.

You just got back from the Surf Ranch. What did you think of the wave?

It was definitely one of the most fun and longest waves I have ever surfed. I could have surfed it all day long even though the water was pretty cold.

How many waves did you get to ride?

I think I surfed a total of six waves, but only one where I made it all the way down the line with a little bit of a barrel.

Most of my other waves were fun, but shorter from being in the wrong spot when the wave would start to barrel. Every surfer in our group was given three or four priority waves per heat so you would get to be the first one to catch a wave.

You could then catch other waves only when the surfer with priority wiped out and you were the next one down the line. This was called “poaching.” I was able to poach a few here and there.

The first wave I caught was poached, which I was glad about because you don’t want to kook it right away with everyone watching. The pressure of being the first one in line with priority is one thing but having that be your very first wave ever would be pretty overwhelming.

What board did you ride, and how did it go on the waves there?

I surfed a 5’10” FireWire Cymatic. I went up quite a bit in volume from what I normally ride. I was wearing a wetsuit, which added weight and I was surfing an unsalted pool, so there was less buoyancy. I’m super glad I went for more volume, because it definitely helped.

Describe the experience of surfing in the middle of farmland hundreds of miles from the ocean?

When we first landed in LAX there was a guy who randomly asked me, “Where you headed, the moon?” I said, “Yup!” He then asked, “No really, where you headed?” I told him I was going to surf Kelly Slater’s wave pool in Lemoore, California, and he said, “Jesus Christ, you are headed to the moon!” I was like, “Yup haha.”

We drove from LAX to Lemoore and the scenery was so beautiful, but unlike any scenery you would image on any other surf trip. It’s crazy, the Surf Ranch has probably brought more surfers into this desolate part of the world than ever before in history.

We hear the water gets pretty cold in Lemoore, this time of year. Were you in a wetsuit?

I think the water temp was easily in the 50’s, so yeah, I wore a wetsuit. It was an old 3mm Ripcurl and it worked perfect at the wave pool even after all these years.

Slater’s wave is pretty much perfect, but it’s in a pool and some people think that cheapens the experience. What did you think? Would you surf that wave every day if you could?

I think it enhances the experience. Most other spots that have near perfect natural waves have obstacles that you need to overcome in order to catch them, like crowds, wind and lack of swell. Kelly has done a pretty good job of eliminating most of those obstacles, so there is really nothing getting in between you and that perfect wave. You have the ability to take your surfing to a whole new level.

The wave also has its limitations. For instance, you cannot see down the line while surfing Kelly’s wave. So, you have to rely on someone on a jet ski yelling at you to “get down low!” when a barrel section is approaching.

A few days after getting back, I was surfing Tracks and tried to pull into a barrel that closed out on me. I jokingly thought to myself that it would have been nice to have the same guy on the jet ski coaching me through that one, the way he coached me through the barrel sections at Kelly’s Surf Ranch.

But then again, it’s a pretty damn good feeling when you make a barrel all on your own.

WHAT’S NEW, WHO STOPPED BY AND SOME UPDATES.

Guy Hagi came in with the kids just before Christmas to grab some fins for his new asymmetrical he’s testing out.

This was such a cool Instagram post by CJ Nelson. It shows the demo boards he used to test for Thunderbolt Technologies. When I heard about how Yu San the man that pretty much came up with this technology, I thought it was really awesome. Yu San has known CJ since they were kids and surfed together. When Yu approached him, CJ was totally against the ideas of this type of construction, but after many months of convincing him to just demo it. If CJ didn’t like it, no problem, because Yu San was willing to go back to the drawing board. Yu San being a pro surfer himself, knew he was on to something. Anyways check out the post, I pasted here.

Several years ago, CJ went to Japan to test boards for flex and performance. Yu San built 13 boards with different internal flex patterns…all look the same from the outside, all white with the numbers 1 thru 13. The boards were ridden in different conditions. The chosen boards were then used for production of the Thunderbolt blanks used in those boards and that’s what we have in our racks now! Thunderbolts are not just randomly manufactured boards. They are tested for performance and feel. Mixing the new technology and old for a feel like no other.

HAWAIIAN SOUTH SHORE MEMBER OF THE MONTH

Kana

Our member of the month is Kana and she came in searching for a board with her husband. They just moved from the mainland and she’s been surfing Waikiki.

She wanted to replace her heavy fiberglass board, since she walks to the beach and it’s super heavy, plus it’s hard to maneuver the board.

After a long discussion, I found that that she just got back into surfing and wanted a board that was more advanced than what she has now, but not too difficult to grow into. I recommended the Thunderbolt Technology Ben Skinner Wrangler model. It’s a single fin board perfect for Waikiki and is light so it’s easy to carry to the beach from her house. Since she’s a beginner, moving to an intermediate level, she’ll be able to grow into this board.

When and why did you initially get into surfing?

I first tried surfing 12-13 years ago, when my husband and I were visiting Japan. He had been surfing since high school, so we had access to surfboards and it was summer time in Izu prefecture.

Did you have a time period you laid off from surfing? If so, when and why did you start back up?

Never had easy access to the ocean, so I was only able to sporadically attempt surfing. I bought a board, but then just had it in storage for 7-8 years and driving 5 hours to get to the ocean got too much.

What is your favorite thing about surfing?

I love being in the ocean, so even just floating on the board and watching the sea turtles and dolphins is fun. I haven’t had a whale or seal sighting yet while on board, so waiting for that.

Where is your favorite place to eat after surfing? What is your favorite item on the menu?

Husband always does the cooking after surfing. I haven’t decided on a favorite, but it’s all good.

What other hobbies do you have besides surfing?

Travel, food (eating it, not making it)

What type of work do you do?

Veterinarian

Tell us about the board you recently purchased from us. What model and size is it and how do you like its performance?

9-2. Wrangler, skinner. I’m not good enough yet to know for sure, but I feel like it’s easier to turn compared to heavier boards that I’ve been on. I think I was able to avoid an accident because the board is easier to turn.

YOGA TALK

Our resident yoga expert, Kilty Inafuku, leads numerous yoga retreats around the world each year. She also has a series of luxury women’s weekend retreats here on Oahu. Kilty has a retreat coming up January 18-21, so we thought we’d have a quick chat with her to find out what happens at her Women’s Weekend Retreat.

Tell us a little bit about how you got started doing retreats here on Oahu?

Well I grew up on Oahu and have been teaching yoga here for the past seven years. A lot of students (especially ones with families or work responsibilities) have told me in the past how they’d love to do a small, intimate yoga retreat here on the island, instead of having to fly somewhere and take a week off to go to a big retreat somewhere else. So last year, I decided to start a series of weekend retreats for women here on Oahu, with a maximum of 12 participants at each event. We did our first one last January and everyone had a great time. In fact, three of the ladies signed up straight away for the 2019 retreat (the one later this month)!

So, these retreats are held every January?

Well that was the original plan, but so many people came to me and told me how excited they were about the retreats after hearing about the first one, that I decided to do them twice per year. We had one in July as well.

Where are these retreats held?

I wanted to have a nice balance between a small intimate setting, but also somewhere that was comfortable and beautiful and luxurious. A friend recommended a great property up in Pupukea on the North Shore. It has a big house and a cabin on the grounds, so we can all stay together and spend time together between activities. The property is up on the hill with breathtaking ocean views, so we can see waves breaking along the entire coast and whales spouting in the distance. It’s surprisingly peaceful.

What do you do at the retreats? Just hours and hours of yoga?

Well, we definitely do a couple sessions of asana (physical yoga poses) each day. Usually one longer session in the morning and a mellower, shorter restorative session in the evening. Then we also have a number of other activities each day, such as guided meditations, pranayama (yogic breathing) sessions, workshops, and guided discussions about self-care, self-empowerment, social justice and community issues. There’s also some down time in case you want to jump in the water or go for a hike, read a book, take a nap, you name it.

Wow, that sounds like a really involved weekend! Is it only for people who are already yoga experts?

Not at all! At each retreat we have had some attendees who have been practicing yoga for years and others who are relatively new to the practice. Some of the ladies have shown up nervous that they weren’t going to be flexible enough to do a “yoga retreat,” but by the end of the weekend they realized that yoga is not just body focused. It’s about practicing selfawareness of your movement, thoughts and breath. Everyone is at a different level of yoga and has different strengths and weaknesses, but we are all on a journey of growth. The point of this retreat is for us to come together and share that growth journey with each other, regardless of whether or not we can touch our toes!

It sounds like a lot of the focus is on how women can care for themselves and be healthier and happier people.

Definitely! No matter what roles we have as mothers, daughters, wives, girlfriends, employees, CEOs, etc. We women will always be able to care for others better if we first learn to care for ourselves and learn to communicate that. This retreat is a chance to remember how important self-care is. We take this time away from busy day-to-day life to recharge our batteries and refresh our spirits. The event also includes amazing farm-to-table meals prepared by my fellow Lululemon ambassador, Hannah Vernon of Homecooked Love. Plus, we bring in a massage therapist and all receive bodywork! The retreat is half yoga/half self-care and a great way to set the tone for the new year!

Well that sounds like an amazing weekend. Are there any spots left for this month’s retreat?

There are a couple of spots left, but they are filling up fast! You can find more information at www.kiltyyoga.com/womens-retreat. html.

Thanks, Kilty! We hope you all have a great time on the North Shore!

NEW AND SUPER-HOT!

Getting Groovy with Rob Machado’s NEW Firewire Seaside. Rob Machado has been one of surfing’s most stylish surfers for three decades. When Cardiff’s favorite son started shaping, it was only a matter of time before we all sat up and took notice. Not surprisingly, Machado’s quiver of shapes is heavy on flow and fun. Rob was one of the first world tour guys to fully embrace the “ride everything” ethos. His performances on single fins and fish shapes had a lot to do with the fact that they are now universally accepted as a legitimate alternative to the high-performance shred stick. When Rob teamed up with Firewire to create a line of boards, the brand jumped at the chance to have both his name and his ideas for fishy shapes in their catalog.

While all of Machado’s boards have gained loyal followings, the Seaside has proven to be the most popular. The Seaside is slightly refined to take on the Go Fish, Rob’s retro fish shape. This updated version has dropped a little bit of area from the tail, narrowed the swallow and created a rounder template for more maneuverability.

Interestingly, the Seaside (which is named after Rob’s home break in Cardiff, California) is a dedicated quad, rather than having the option to be a quad or a twin fin. This should give riders an indication that although the Seaside maintains the traditional fish shape, it’s intended to be a modern high-performance version that doesn’t sacrifice the classic fish flow and speed of course.

The board is built with Firewire’s Helium construction which makes it light, flexible and responsive. While Rob has ridden the shape in draining Tahitian barrels. Most people like to use a fish in small beach breaks and points, since the Helium helps the board to feel alive in smaller waves.

Of course, when we saw this board hit the market, we knew we had to get our hands on some. We put in an order with Firewire and before the boards even arrived in the shop, we’d already sold half the order. When the shipment arrived, the other half sold out in less than three days! Clearly, we weren’t the only people excited about this board. We ordered another shipment to make sure everyone who wants one can get their hands on a Seaside!

Even though summer is now over and the focus has turned to the big waves of the North Shore. The reality is that winter is a hit-and-miss season with lots of down days between XXL swells. If you are looking for something to fill the gaps between days at Pipe and Waimea, Rob Machado’s favorite fish shape just might be the thing!

SURF TERMS THAT YOU MAY OR MAY NOT KNOW OR UNDERSTAND

Surfers have our their lingo and it can be pretty confusing for non-surfers or even the most experienced wave riders. I often have people in the shop asking me to explain some of the more fundamental surf lingo. Here are four surf terms I’ve defined.

What is a wind swell? And what is a ground swell?

You often hear people at the beach referring to wind swell and ground swell and saying things like “Hmm, the waves are a bit bumpy and weak. Looks like we only have a bit of wind swell in the water,” or “Wow, that ground swell has really filled in.” But what exactly does this mean?

Waves are generated by wind blowing over the surface of the water and when they are first generated, they tend to be somewhat weak and disorganized. The farther these waves travel, the more organized they become. They are all moving at slightly different speeds and as waves catch up with each other they join to create more powerful waves. As the waves join, gaps are created between them. These gaps are measured in seconds and referred to as period. For example, a swell that has only traveled a few feet from its point of origin might only have one or twosecond periods between waves. After traveling hundreds of miles, that period may have risen to eight or nine seconds because numerous waves have joined together.

The farther a swell travels and the longer the period is, the faster and more powerful the swell becomes and the farther below the surface the waves extends. Not all swells have the energy to travel long distances. As swells travel and join, the period increases, but the height of the swell decreases or decays. Swells that are generated by light to moderate local winds don’t tend to get very big and therefore decay quickly. The period on these swells might get up to around 10 seconds if they travel far enough, but not much higher. These swells usually fade out after traveling short distances. These swells are referred to as wind swells and tend to be weak and disorganized. They can still be valuable for surfers, if they impact a surfable coastline. Typically, they don’t tend to be super great swells.

Ground swells on the other hand, are generated by big storms and are able to travel long distances. As the period of these swells increases into the double digits, the swells become extremely powerful. They begin to exhibit the “blue corduroy” lines that we are used to seeing marching into the North Shore during winter. Ground swells typically have periods ranging from 11 seconds to 25+ seconds. The longer that period gets, the faster and more powerful the waves become and the farther below the ocean’s surface they extend. A 10-second period swell will only begin to feel the ocean floor at around 256 feet. Whereas a 20-second swell will feel the bottom at more than 1000 feet. Therefore, we refer to long-period swells as ground swells because they are feeling the “ground” of the ocean floor sooner. They often bend in specific directions based on the bathymetry of the ocean floor.

Hawaiian South Shore December Newsletter

TOYS FOR TOTS
David Kelly | Owner, Hawaiian South Shore

Most of my childhood was spent growing up overseas in the Far East. We moved around a lot because my dad was in the Marine Corps and was always deployed somewhere. Mom would work evenings to help make ends meet. I remember for Christmas she would often make clothes for us or even remake old clothing into something new. She picked that up from my grandmother, who owned a used clothing store after the war. Grandma would get clothes from the GI’s, which is what they used to call military personnel (short for “government issue”).

We were lucky a couple of times during Christmas when Dad’s good friend (whom we called uncle) took us to Toys for Tots. I don’t remember too much about it accept checking out the old pictures of Hobo Kelly, Marines in dress blues and Santa Claus. The holidays always remind me to help Toys for Tots or any charities. It not only stokes the children, but also gives hope to the parents and makes them realize that people do care. It uplifts their spirits and hopefully empowers them to raise good kids, who will help build a strong future where everyone can prosper.

For those of you who don’t know about Toys for Tots, it is a program run by the US Marine Corp intended to distribute toys to children whose parents can’t afford to buy them gifts at Christmas. The program was started in 1947 by a reservist named Major Bill Hendricks and continues in its mission today. It’s stated goal is to “deliver, through a new toy at Christmas, a message of hope to less fortunate youngsters that will assist them in becoming responsible, productive, and patriotic citizens.”

Growing up around Marine Corp families, we were always surrounded by a tight-knit community where people helped each other out without expecting thanks or even acknowledgment. They just did things to take care of others, and then went on with life, while keeping an eye out for others who needed a hand. I think that this type of generosity and care for others is the true meaning of Christmas. I encourage you all to look for ways that you can give back this holiday season. Mele kalikimaka!


Check out the Puddle Jumper HPs & RNF Retros.

We have a lot of new C4 Technology!


ROGER PINCHES

For those of you who missed the newsletter last month, we have recently been spending some time with author Roger Pinches. He is a mover and shaker in the Australian surf industry. Pinches helped run marketing and team events at JA Surf Shop in Adelaide, which held the original Australian license for O’Neill and Golden Breed. Over the years, he worked on a variety of groundbreaking ad campaigns and traveled all over Australia where he would attend events with some of the world’s top surfers, like Wayne Lynch, Gerry Lopez, Jeff Hakman and Reno Abileira. He worked at the heart of the Australian surf industry and has seen and experienced a lot of the history that makes up the foundation of our sport.

Pinches is releasing a new coffee table book called “Rare Breed – Damn It, We Did It First”. The book shares some of the history, and serves as a tribute, to the industry pioneer to Jack O’Neill. Jack O’Neill has had a huge impact not only on Pinches’ life (as an O’Neill brand rep in Australia), but also all our lives as surfers. After all, he invented the wetsuit, which is one of the most essential surf equipment pieces in existence!

In addition to the number of previously untold stories from the golden age of surfing, the book will also include artwork created during Pinches’ tenure as marketing/art manager for JA Surf Shop, O’Neill and Golden Breed. The ad below depicts a scene from the 1976 Bells Beach contest in which team rider Jeff Hakman (pictured) ended up winning. The photos in this ad were taken by Pinches in 1976, while the team was traveling and surfing in Byron Bay. Art and design by Roger Pinches. Ad for Surfer, Surfing World & Tracks Magazine in US & Australia.

“Jack O’Neill was surfing,” says Piches. “That was true even before he invented the wetsuit. Jack epitomized that is good about our hobby. His wetsuit was simply the culmination of his desire to stay in the water longer and get more out of the surfing experience. While surfing continues to change, that one thing remains true that our desire to get the ultimate from ourselves and the ocean. This is the O’Neill experience and is the best thing we as surfers can offer. The stories in this book are dedicated to Jack O’Neill and his family and are my way of saying thank you for their contribution to our sport and my life.”


HAWAIIAN SOUTH SHORE MEMBER OF THE MONTH


Randy Komai

When and what got you into surfing?
Started surfing when I was in 5th grade. We live by the ocean, so fishing, diving, boating and surfing was automatic.

Did you have a time period you weren’t surfing?
I did layoff out of high school because it got boring and I bought a big boat and was deep sea fishing instead.

If so when and why did you start back up?
When I was in my thirties I came back, and I was fishing and surfing. Missed surfing so I got the bug again.

What is your favorite thing about surfing?
Just being out in the water and hanging with friends. And of course, laying down some turns.

Where is your favorite place to eat after surf?
Saigon Noodle House

What is your favorite item?
Pho or one of plates.

What other hobbies do you have besides surfing?
Fishing from shore and my 18’ Whaler.

What do you do for work?
District sales manager NAPA Hawaii

Tell us about the board you recently bought. What model and size, and how do you like the ride?
Just bought a 5’8” round nose fish redux in eps/epoxy. Only used it a few times, so still trying to get used to it but so far so good.


YOGA POSE OF THE MONTH: MALASANA

The yoga pose of the month for December is one that directly improves our ability to surf better. After all, that is exactly why many of us get into yoga. We want to become stronger, fitter and more flexible so that we can better enjoy our hobbies and sports and perform at a higher level. Although this pose is one that can help you surf better, yoga is intended to do something far more important, like helping us live better. Whether you’ve been practicing yoga for years or are just getting into it to help improve your cutback, try to open your mind to the holistic benefit that’s achieved through consistent practice. Who knows, maybe you’ll find that yoga doesn’t just change how you surf but also how you approach life in general.

Malasana (also known as garland pose or squat pose) is sort of a funny-looking asana, but it’s a powerful one that has the potential to benefit you in many ways. Not only is malasana a grounding pose that helps you to relax, but also it has many physical benefits, such as stretching the hips, groin, and low back, improving digestion and metabolism, warming up your knees and ankles, and improving your general posture.

Squatting is something that we naturally do when we are young, but often lose the ability to do properly as we get older and out of shape. Relearning this posture helps us regain the balance and flexibility that we may have lost from years spent sitting in offices or stuck in traffic.

Malasana is a good pre-surf pose. It activates our core muscles and prepares us for the sudden shift into a controlled squat that we make each time we stand up on a wave.

As with all yoga asanas, it’s ideal to perform malasana on an empty stomach and bowels. Before paddling out, find a flat hard bit of ground and start standing. Take your feet a little wider than hips width to provide a solid foundation and angle your toes slightly out. Then, simply squat down.

A couple of fine-tuning points:

  1. Keep your knees happy by making sure that your knees are pointed in the same direction as your toes.
  2. Don’t worry if your heels don’t touch the ground. This may change over time as you practice more. If it doesn’t, it’s not something to worry about.
  3. Bring your hands into prayer pose and use your elbows to press against your inner thighs. This provides a little leverage to help you lift your torso and thereby deepen the stretch.

Another variation, that feels pretty darn good on your back, is to stay in this squat position, take a ragdoll shape with the arms by grabbing opposite elbows and letting your head hang heavy. The more you tuck your chin in toward your chest, the more you’ll feel a stretch in the muscles along the length of your spine.

Hold the pose for a few rounds of breath. To come out of the posture, release your hands to the ground and lift your hips up for a standing forward fold, which feels pretty good as a counter movement. Repeat this pose a few times, focusing on your breath and really allowing your body to react to the squat. Once your muscles are warmed up and awake, then grab your board and get out there!

Kilty Inafuku teaches yoga classes on the North Shore at the North Shore Yoga Co-Op and Paumalu Yoga, in Honolulu at Power Yoga Hawaii Piikoi and in Kailua at Yoga by the Sea. She also hosts, and guest teaches at various yoga events on the island and leads retreats both in Hawaii and overseas. For more information visit www.kiltyyoga.com.


BACK-FOOTED VS. FRONT-FOOTED SURFING

If you talk to enough people about surfing, you are bound to hear the terms “back-footed surfer” and “front-footed surfer.” While these terms are self-explanatory, there is a lot more riding on them than their simple definitions. Different boards and different styles of surfing work better with front and back-footed surfing, so it’s worthwhile taking a closer look at the two approaches.

Prior to the invention of the thruster, most boards being ridden were single fins and twins. Most of them were voluminous with the widest points of the board farther forward than midpoint. While these boards could be ridden from just about anywhere (and often saw surfers moving their feet around on their boards while riding waves), they were predominantly surfed off the front foot. This approach is more driving and forward-focused, while emphasizing down-the-line speed and lateral rail turns.

The invention of the thruster turned the entire paradigm on its head. These lower-volume, higher-rockered boards were loose and maneuverable. The cluster of three fins at the back of the board allowed for aggressive, vertical, top-to-bottom surfing. The back-foot surfing approach is facilitated by standing with your back foot over the fin cluster and weighting/driving the board heavily on the back foot.

While back-footed surfing is certainly more common, front-footed surfing is not entirely lost to history. Some of the wider, flatter, hybrid modern shapes lend themselves to front-footed surfing, such as Firewire Chumlee model. Predominantly front-footed surfers find that these boards work well for them, while those who prefer a back-footed approach seem to struggle on them. The Lost Puddle Jumper and Puddle Fish on the other hand, are wide, flatter boards that still tend to maintain their back-footed feel. These boards tend to be faster down the line and a bit more forgiving and user-friendly, while still maintaining much of the maneuverability of the modern high-performance thruster. Since they have many of the characteristics of a standard shortboard. many people find it easy to transition back to back-footed surfing when they swap back to their normal high-performance boards.

Regardless, of your style of surfing, we at Hawaiian South Shore have a wide range of boards that cater to just about every approach. Stop on by and take a look!


STAYING HEALTHY BY STAYING DISTRACTED

The holidays are here and for a lot of us that means eating. Lots of eating! There’s nothing better than Thanksgiving and Christmas dinners, and I can’t wait for some of the ono grinds I’ll be enjoying in the next few weeks. I’m sure I’ll probably enjoy a bit too much in fact. One of my friends once told me that Thanksgiving isn’t over until you hate yourself, and that the same rule applies for Christmas dinner too (that one made me laugh). Overeating isn’t something we do only on holidays. Overeating and obesity have become chronic problems in the US, and here in Hawaii. While beautiful people come in all shapes and sizes, the reality is, that many of us could improve our surfing (and our health) by losing a few pounds.

Shortly after the indulgence of Christmas comes the New Year’s resolutions. One of the most common resolutions is to lose weight. If that is one of your resolutions in 2019, maybe it’s time to look at a new strategy or distraction.

I recently read an article about a researcher who found that he had gained a lot of unwanted weight and decided he needed to do something about it. As a scientist, he understood that weight management is all about caloric intake and the balance of your calories in versus calories out. So, he decided to take a threepronged approach to losing weight. First, he adopted an 80/20 diet, so 80 percent of his calories came from healthy, wholefood sources and the other 20 percent he could eat whatever he wanted. This ensured that the majority of his food was healthy, without depriving himself of foods that he loved (as deprivation often causes people to break their diets).

The second part of the weight loss campaign was exercise. The more we exercise, the more calories we burn. Of course, as surfers, our entire hobby involves exercise. Sometimes it can be easy to get a bit lazy with our surfing, riding bigger boards than we need and talking story rather than keeping busy in the lineup. If this sounds familiar, try to find other cross-training activities that not only help you burn calories, but also specifically help you get fitter for surfing (such as paddling, yoga, Pilates, etc.).

The third part of the researcher’s weight loss program was the one that interested me the most, is distraction. Like many of us, he found that when he was inactive and lazy, he often fell into bad snacking habits. For instance, when he was watching television, he often ate snacks even though he wasn’t hungry. Meanwhile, when he was working on his coursework for his master’s degree, he stayed super busy and focused that he didn’t snack so much. He decided that he needed to minimize the down time by keeping himself busy and distracted. This way, he would not only be more productive and accomplish more in life, it also prevented him from mindlessly snacking.

The three-pronged strategy worked for the researcher (he lost nearly 50 pounds!) and it can work for the rest of us too. If your New Year’s resolution is to get back into shape so you can surf and live your best, try a bit of healthy distraction. There’s no telling what you might accomplish!


CHECK OUT THE PUDDLE JUMPER HPS AND RNF RETROS.

WE HAVE A LOT OF NEW C4 TECHNOLOGY!

Marcus Oshiro, the former Wahiawa district representative, who picked up a Lost Puddle Fish. He’s working his way down to a shorter board. The Puddle Fish is a perfect board to do this on.


SUPER STOKED TO SEE LYNDIE IRONS (THE LATE ANDY IRONS WIDOW) AND PAT TENORE (FOUNDER AND PRESIDENT OF RVCA) PICKING UP FINS FOR LYNDIE’S SON AXEL.


“I am extremely pleased with my experience at HSS. Very knowledgeable and friendly staff. Hooked me up with the perfect board for me. I will absolutely continue to shop here.”


CHRISTMAS MEMBERS ONLY SALE!!!

We’re really stoked that you’re a member! We like hooking you up sometimes, so stop in and check out the sales and remember we have plenty parking, yeah. I also know we have plenty construction too, but you can park across the street at the former Sport Authority and they just knocked the warehouse down to make a parking lot.

After you shop, go check out Starbucks or Jamba. Since Starbucks is one of the busiest, I use the app to preorder, but if you don’t mind the lines move fast at the place. The staff over their have things wired.

So here are some specials we have going on for you!



The Vissla Boardshorts are made of high-quality materials that are eco-friendly and functional.
Enjoy our Christmas Special: 20% OFF VISSLA BOARDSHORTS



The Lockbox made by our Japanese friends. This one is large enough to fit most car remotes.
Enjoy our Christmas Special: 20% OFF HAWAIIAN SOUTH SHORE LOCKBOX



The Hawaiian South Shore Hybrid 2mm Wet Rashguard.
Enjoy our Christmas Special: 20% OFF HAWAIIAN SOUTH SHORE WET RASHGUARD
I’ve been happy with mine and we’re on our 3rd reorder in about two months. Words getting around, the thing works!



The sunglasses made for watersports lovers!
Enjoy our Christmas Special: 20% OFF OCEAN SUNGLASSES


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Hawaiian South Shore November Newsletter

THE BLUE ZONE IN OKINAWA
David Kelly | Owner, Hawaiian South Shore

Most of us have heard of “blue corduroy” (the wave lines that stack up on the horizon during major swell events), but not as many have heard of blue zones. Blue zones are specific areas around the world that have been identified as places where people live much longer than average. According to research by Dan Buettner, blue zones have been identified in several places around the world and includes Loma Linda, California, Icaria, Greece, Sardinia, Italy and Okinawa.

Having grown up in Okinawa, I found it interesting to learn that my childhood home had one of the longest-living populations in the world. In fact, with the area’s propensity for natural disasters (Okinawa is getting hammered by two major typhoons this week), you’d think that the population would actually live shorter-than average lives, not longer! But it turns out, there are measurable reasons why people live so long in the islands of southern Japan and a lot of it has to do with diet.

The men in Okinawa tend to live to an average age of 84, while the women live 90 years on average. This is well above the global average and is impressive, in its own right. They also suffer far lower instances of diseases that are prevalent in the US. Only 20% the rate of cardiovascular disease, breast cancer and prostate cancer and only 50% the rate of dementia. But even more impressive, is the large number of Okinawans who live past the century mark. These are the survivors who are the most interesting when it comes to lifestyle and particularly diet.

Okinawans who were born before 1914 and lived the first third of their lives before 1940, when specific dietary factors were widespread, ended up internalizing these dietary practices and turning them into habit. Most notable among these, is the fact that they get most of their calories from Okinawan sweet potato (one of the world’s healthiest foods) and sprouted brown rice and tofu, versus the modern staples such as bread and white rice. They also ate fish a few times a week instead of the modern dependence on fast food meats. In fact, dairy and meat only made up a very small percentage of their diets!

In addition to this basic diet, most Okinawan homes have their own gardens where specific vegetables are grown. I can remember growing up in Okinawa and seeing these gardens everywhere. I also remember how often we would run out to get sweet potatoes for mom and not knowing that these simple things were helping people to live longer!

Scientists have identified a number of foods that are eaten by Okinawans that directly lead to increased health and longevity. This includes a number of foods that are grown in these gardens. These foods include: bitter melon (hard for some people to get used to the taste, but extremely high in nutrients); tofu (Okinawans eat nearly eight times as much tofu as Americans); sweet potatoes (high in flavonoids, carotenoids, vitamin c, slowburning carbs, and sporamin, which is a strong anti-aging agent); turmeric (as a powerful anti-inflammatory); brown rice (sprouted in water before being cooked); shitake mushrooms; miso soup and seaweeds.

Growing up, I never thought of how healthy these foods were for me. But today, looking back at my childhood in Okinawa and learning about why the people there live so long, it all makes a lot of sense. It also gives me a nice dose of nostalgia as I remember the food and lifestyle I grew up with. It’s a lifestyle that helps keep people healthy and in the blue for longer. That’s something we surfers can really appreciate!

Photo by David Mclain Please check out his work, since I feel it’s some of the best work. www.davidmclain.com


Hawaiian South Shore NEW Wet Rash Review

Our Outer Island Friend @surfdog808 is super stoked on our New Wet Rash Super stoked!



HAWAIIAN SOUTH SHORE MEMBER OF THE MONTH
Hao Zheng
How long have you been surfing, and where do you normally like to surf?
I took surf lessons as a visitor, before I moved back to the island, but started to surf regularly about a year ago. My current favorite spot is Pops off Waikiki.

Do you remember your first ride, and who pushed you into your first wave?
I took my very first surf lesson years ago in Haleiwa when I used to live on the mainland. My surf instructor Buttons Kaluhiokalani towed me out to the surf break and pushed me onto my first wave. It became the favorite thing to do each time I came back to visit. I wanted to paddle out one day and catch my own waves and realized that I’m happier to have access to the ocean year-round. I was fortunate to move back to the island about 3 years ago. I was ready to take up surfing as a serious hobby and got a starter longboard soon after I moved back. But despite all the lessons, I had trouble catching waves on my starter board. One day a friend of mine let me borrow his Stewart Hydro Hull. What a difference it made! I started to demo Steward boards at your shop and finally got a Stewart board of my own!

How many boards do you have in your quiver?
I currently have a 9’ Stewart Redline longboard and a 7’ Libtech fun board. Upgrading from my starter board to these boards has been quite a luxury! These are light to carry and the 9’ is easy to paddle. Both boards are fun for catching and riding waves. The best part is that as my skills progress in surfing, they will still be great boards.

What is your favorite thing about surfing?
I love being in the ocean and this is a fun way to interact with nature and immerse in the culture. There’s so much to learn about the skills and from life.

What do you do for a living? Is it a career you love, and does it relate to surfing?
I’m an environmental engineer. Most of our projects deal with contaminants in soil and groundwater which could potentially impact the water quality in the ocean. This can be said to be somewhat related to surfing. I’m also working on becoming a scientific diver for future underwater projects.

What are your other hobbies apart from surfing? Do these hobbies relate to surfing at all?
I also enjoy scuba, free diving, Argentine tango, yoga and traveling to experience other cultures. I really enjoyed my previous trip to Belgium, Czech Republic and Poland, and hope to visit Iceland and Norway next year.

Would you like to add anything else?
It’s always a pleasure to visit Hawaiian South Shore. Dave, Brett, and crew are always friendly and helpful. I also love the diamond shape wax pattern that Brett kindly put on my new boards!


REVIEW
Firewire Slater Cymatic

808beerhunt: “Whoa dis board is MAGIC!!!”


WHAT’S NEW & WHAT’S HAPPENING
NEW LOST C4 Technology We’re super excited to get these two popular models in the NEW C4 technology. By the time you read this, it’ll be in the shop. Puddle Jumper HP RNF Retro


YOGA POSE OF THE MONTH: UTTANASANA

Greg Long once said that anyone who is serious about big wave surfing and doesn’t do yoga, is fooling themselves. The reality is, that the logic applies to surfing of any type. Not only does yoga keep us limber and prevent injuries, it also increases core strength and teaches us to breathe properly. These are two fundamental building blocks of good athletics.

To keep us surfing and living at our full potential, local yoga teacher and life-long surfer Kilty Inafuku will lead us through a yoga pose of the month. This month’s pose is intended to help us wake up with ease and prepare you for the day. This move will energize you as you head out for an early surf session, before the sun comes up and the crowds clog the lineups.

Uttanasana is one of the foundational asanas (poses) in yoga. It’s a forward bend that serves as a stable, supported “inversion.” While you are not actually standing on your hands or shoulders (as in some of yoga’s inversions) you still get the benefit of reversing gravity. With your head below your heart you will enjoy a rush of energy to your head that will energize you and prepare you for the day.

To practice uttanasana, ideally start with an empty stomach and bowels. Stand with your feet about hips width apart and knees slightly bent. Fold forward from the hips and allow your hands to rest on the ground, shins or whatever allows you to be the most comfortable. If you have a block available, you can position it under your hands for a little added support. Blocks basically brings the ground closer to you.

Keep your knees bent, especially if you have back problems or just feel tight in general. The more you straighten your legs the more intense this will feel in the hamstrings and backs of your legs. The posture should be a bend at your hips and not from a rounded lower back. Rounding your back could aggravate any existing issues.

As you settle into the pose, root into the ground through your feet. You can play with shifting your weight between heels and toes to feel the sensation of the pose. Allow your head to dangle, while the crown of your head is pulling toward the floor and your eyes look back between your legs.

To come out of the pose, keep your knees bent and bring your hands to your hips. Engage your core muscle as you rise back up to standing position, which is also known as tadasana. Try to maintain an elongated back on your way up to a standing position.

If it feels good for you, repeat this pose a few times to start your day. You can even use it as a reset periodically throughout your day. It’s better than a cup of coffee!

Kilty Inafuku teaches yoga classes on the North Shore at the North Shore Yoga Co-Op and Paumalu Yoga, in Honolulu at Power Yoga Hawaii Piikoi and in Kailua at Yoga by the Sea. She also hosts and guest teaches at various yoga events on the island and leads retreats both in Hawaii and overseas. For more information visit www.kiltyyoga.com.


WHAT !!! WHO’S GOING TO KELLY SLATER’S SURF RANCH?

Kelly Slater’s Surf Ranch in Lemoore, California is currently one of the most sought-after and exclusive experiences in surfing. The perfect, private-access only wave pool is on just about everyone’s bucket list. Normally the Surf Ranch is kept locked up tight and only pros, celebrities and Kelly Slater’s friends get to take the waves for a test ride. In December, you can add our store manager Brett Martin to that privileged list!

Brett will be representing Hawaiian South Shore, at the FCS’s visit to the Surf Ranch, in recognition that our shop was the top retailer for FCS fins in the Hawaii region. FCS Hawaii rep and surfing legend, Keoni Watson, presented us with an invitation to the Surf Ranch. Brett is the lucky guy who gets to head over to California to surf Slater’s incredible waves. I can’t think of a more deserving person to get such an exclusive treat. Brett works tirelessly to keep the Hawaiian South Shore running and always brings a great attitude with him to the shop.

I’m super stoked that he gets to go to Lemoore with the other top FCS sellers from the various regions. I’m looking forward to hearing that he scored the best waves of his life when he gets back in December! Make sure to check back next month for photos and a story from Brett’s visit to the ultimate wave pool!


CATCHING UP WITH SURF HISTORIAN ROGER HOLMES PINCHES

A while back we had the opportunity to sponsor the Lost and Found Collection event here on Oahu. This event featured a collection of old photographs of legendary surfers that Doug Walker stumbled upon at a flea market. Interestingly, our blog post about the event ended up getting us in touch with another surf historian via comments on the blog thread. I’ve spent some time getting to know Roger Holmes Pinches via email and found his story to be an interesting one.

Roger was born in South Australia, which is 60 miles from the surf spots at Waitpinga, Middleton and Boomer Beach. He spent weekends on the coast surfing, camping and eventually he got into South Australia School of Art when he was 15.

After finishing art school and still an avid surfer, Roger met John Arnold. John Arnold ran a surf shop in Adelaide and ended up hiring Roger to run the shop’s design and advertising department. At the same time, the shop picked up the O’Neill franchise from California. This gave them the rights to manufacture O’Neill products in Australia. They also had the rights to Golden Breed clothing.

Business was booming by the early 70’s and the shop started supplying major stores all over Australia. They also began flying big name surfers over to Australia like Gerry Lopez, Jeff Hakman and Reno Abillera. During the season, Roger would take these athletes around Australia to the various events at Bells Beach, Sydney and other free surfing trips in South Australia.

Roger took Jeff Hakman to the Bells Beach contest in 1976 where Hakman ended up becoming the first Hawaiian to win in Australia. By that time, Roger had a big advertising budget and was designing full-page adverts for international magazines such as Surfer Magazine, Tracks Mag and Surfing World.

After a few decades, Roger is now living in a remote villa on the northeastern coast of Bali. Between solo surf sessions, he has spent the past three years writing stories about his experiences in the surf industry from the 1960’s and 1970’s. These stories include adventures with some of the surfing’s biggest personalities. He plans to turn these stories into a glossy coffee table book dedicated to Jack O’Neill. He hopes it will embody Jack’s classic ethos of “Damn it, we did it first.” The book is scheduled to be released as a limited edition offering in Australia and California in 2019.

“I am fortunate to have an amazing archive of notes, letters and photographs,” says Roger. The book promises to be a colorful and informative look at our sport’s history, so keep an eye out for its release. As Jack O’Neill said, “It’s been a hell of a ride, and long may it continue.”


STRAW HAT THE LOCAL BRAND
WHY JAPANESE RUBBER?
30 DAY MONEY BACK GUARANTEED!

Wetsuits have come a long way in the past 50 years. What started as crude and inflexible, iceman suits have evolved into sleek, supple heaters, that keep us in the water much longer than we ever could have dreamed. All of the major surf brands make suits now and boutique brands, have sprung up as well, to bring top-end rubber to quality conscious consumers. Our Straw Hat brand has a line of wetsuits and it’s one that we are quite proud of. We understand wetsuit quality and know a good product when we make one.

The core component of a suit is its rubber. It stands to reason that the better the rubber is the better the suit will be. We want a combination of warmth and flexibility. The Japanese company that makes our suits has been building top quality suits for divers, surfers and, even the Japanese National Defense Force, for 35 years. The skin of our rubber is slippery smooth, but it stands up to the elements. Some of our past clients are still using suits they bought five years ago, with no dry rot!

We weren’t satisfied with only having the best rubber on the market. We added extra design elements like elasticity for a better fit. We also added silicone rubber in cuffs to maintain seal and prevent over-stretching with frequent use, and a nylon loop sewn into the zipper to attach to your board short string under the suit to keep it in place.

The result? Wetsuits that are built to last but provide the warmth and comfort that 21st-century surfers demand. If you are looking for the best wetsuits, these are definitely worth checking out. With a 30-day money back guarantee for our Reward members, you can’t go wrong.


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Hawaiian South Shore October Newsletter

WHO AND WHAT IS THUNDERBOLT TECHNOLOGIES
David Kelly | Owner, Hawaiian South Shore


Mark Nelson founded Carve Sports, Inc. / VERITAS SURFCRAFT in 2014. Since that time, Mark and his team have partnered with Yu Sumitomo of Thunderbolt Technologies and elite longboard surfers including CJ Nelson, Harley Ingleby and Ben Skinner. Together with their shapers, this team has created exceptional lineups of high-performance and classic longboards. These boards have fun shapers and an established distribution of their boards in most major surf markets around the world. Brands include, CJ Nelson Designs, Harley Ingleby Series by Tolhurst Surfboards, Skindog Surfboards and Flying Diamonds Fins. With so much history and tradition under his roof you’d think Mark would be a throwback, but he’s actually one of the most progressive forward-thinkers in the longboard world. He is one of the first to utilize the revolutionary Thunderbolt technology.

Mark met Yu Sumitomo, the creator of Thunderbolt Technologies, when he was researching alternative surfboard construction. He looked at a lot of different construction options and toured several factories but didn’t find anything close to Yu Sumitomo’s boards in terms of quality and performance. When they met in 2014, Yu Sumitomo was already making high-performance longboards, with earlier generations of the Thunderbolt construction, for some of the top professional surfers in the world. The flex and rebound characteristics of his boards were simply on a different level in terms of responsiveness. They proved to be very durable compared to traditional board-building materials.

With Thunderbolt Technologies’ blanks, the internal flex control components can be adjusted to provide the amount of flex needed in each part of the board. The boards essentially get designed from the inside out based on what the surfers and designers want. The boards are 100% hand layups, which allow for a high level of custom tuning. Each model and size are built with their own unique flex control system. Once these hand-built blanks are finished, they can be laminated with a variety of materials ranging from XEON Fiberglass to carbon fiber.

XEON Fiberglass is a proprietary fiberglass cloth that is prepigmented in a variety of colors. This ensures that the glassers don’t need to overload the boards with resin to get rich color during lamination. As a result, they can precisely control the amount of resin used from board to board for consistency in weight and lamination. The XEON Fiberglass is laminated to the finished Thunderbolt blank, which already has the internal flexural control components for exceptional flex and rebound. XEON Fiberglass has the same flexural characteristics as regular fiberglass. When this is matched with the Thunderbolt blanks you get lots of flex with a prolonged rebound and extended projection when coming out of turns.

Carbon fiber, on the other hand, takes more energy to stretch and rebounds to its pre-stretched length more rapidly than fiberglass. When you add carbon fiber lamination to a Thunderbolt blank that has internal carbon fiber flex control components, you’re doubling up on the speed that the board rebounds with when pushed hard in a turn. The harder you push, the faster it rebounds, which gives back a lot of energy and projects the board out of turns with extra speed and force. It takes more energy to flex a carbon fiber board than one laminated with XEON. The carbon fiber Thunderbolt boards excel in larger surf, where the full benefit of that extra energy release can be realized. Of course, powerful surfers can put carbon fiber boards to full effect in any conditions.

With Carve’s high-performance boards, the most significant thing that everyone notices are the increase in energy projected by the board when coming out of turns. The boards flex very well, so when put hard on rail they draw a tighter arc that allows for faster turns. Coming out of turns, the internal flex components generate a huge amount of energy and when the board unflexes it projects the board forward. This big uptick in responsiveness is what the riders love so much.

Traditional models also benefit from the advantages of flex and rebound, but in more subtle ways. You can take Thunderbolt logs and put them on rail when you want to, but the primary benefit CJ Nelson is looking for in his traditional models is enhancing flow, feel and improving the responsiveness. This also allows him to nimbly position the board exactly where he wants to be on a wave, rather than wrestling a more rigid heavier log like traditional construction models. Thunderbolt blanks are also set up for the tail to twist as well as flex. This allows the rider to control the board from the nose, with a lot more dexterity and rigid constructions.

Yu Sumitomo is the man who came up with the Thunderbolt technology and his commitment to quality and constant pursuit of elevating performance. His father, Tamotsu started making surfboards in Japan over 40 years ago and is one of the true innovators of the industry. Yu Sumitomo learned a lot from his dad and has continued to advance the art of building surfboards to the highest level. He is the reason that Mark Nelson got involved in the surfboard industry, and is as much a brother to Mark as he is a business partner. Between Mark, Yu, CJ, Harley and Ben, Carve Sports has grown into a thriving business and one that Hawaiian South Shore is proud to represent!


HAWAIIAN SOUTH SHORE MANAGER
Brett Martin

Surf shops have been a central part of our culture for decades! They are the watering hole of the surf community, where people come to stock up on supplies, check out the latest shapes and surf videos, and simply talk story. But while most of us have spent hundreds of hours in our local shops, we often fail to notice the people working behind the scenes to make these hubs of surf culture tick. That’s why we are turning the spotlight inward this month. We want everyone to get to know one of the main characters behind Hawaiian South Shore, so we decided to sit down and have a chat with our general manager, Brett Martin.

So where did you grow up and go to school, Brett?
I grew up in Southern California, in the city of Fullerton. I attended many different schools growing up, but the most significant were Fullerton Union High School and California State University, where I earned a bachelor’s in business administration.

Coming from Southern California, when did you first get into surfing, and what were your local spots growing up?
I was probably 10 years old when I first started surfing. My dad bought me my first surfboard at that age, and I was a weekend warrior for a while. My Dad took me to the beach just about every weekend. I caught the bug early in life, for sure. My local spots were Huntington Beach, Newport Beach, and San Onofre, and I had a lot of great sessions at those spots growing up.

Do you prefer longboarding, short boarding or both? And has this always been the case, or has your surfing evolved over the years?
I have always loved both. They both offer something different, and it’s really nice to be able to switch between the two depending on what the waves are doing and what mood I’m in. If it’s pumping, then I’m most likely going to grab my shortboard, and if it’s a bit smaller and I’m in the mood to try to draw out some classic lines and get on the nose, then I grab my 9’6 CJ Nelson Guerrero.

Do you do any other board sports, or have any other ocean-related hobbies?
I skateboard on occasion, and I also like to body surf.

Can you tell us about your most frightening experience in the surf?
My most frightening experience was last winter at Log Cabins. It was only slightly overhead, but I wiped out on the first wave of a set and was held under for like three waves. I thought I was going to die.
Everytime I would finally make it up for air, another huge lip would break on me and send me in all kinds of directions, with absolutely no control. I was completely at the mercy of the powerful force of nature. It was definitely something I will never forget, and a very humbling experience.

What about the best wave of your life? Does one stick out in your memory?
The best wave ever was the first one that I caught as a kid. The first time I caught a wave on the face. It was such a fun and rewarding moment. All that work of getting tossed around on the inside finally paid off. Up until that point, I was mostly getting worked trying to paddle out to the lineup and catching nothing but white water. When I caught my first actual wave face and was able to see the wave from that angle—see it just as it was lining up—that was something that I had never seen before. I was in awe the whole time. That was definitely the best feeling ever.

If you could create the perfect wave, what would it look like for you?
It would definitely be a super long barrel or two with some nice face time in between for a few off the lips. It would be like the wave that Andy Irons caught in High Five, when he won best barrel in 2010. He gets barreled twice and pig dogs in his own signature style that will forever stand out in my mind. Everything was so perfect about that wave and how he surfed it.

Where is your go-to surf spots now?
Right now, my top spot in town is Diamond Head. It usually always has waves, the vibe is usually good, and I just always have a lot of fun when I go there. I usually have a lot of fun at Tracks when I’m out that way and it’s breaking. When Country picks up, Chuns and Ehukai are usually my top choices.

What other jobs did you have before taking over as manager of Hawaiian South Shore?
I worked at Papa John’s Pizza, Hollywood Video, UPS, and a family-owned swimming pool business. I mostly worked retail. Right before I took this job, I was working as an operations manager at Old Navy Ala Moana.

Was working in surf retail something you have always had an interest in, or did you just fall into the job? How did you end up hooking up with HSS?
Yes, working in the surf industry is a dream come true for me. Working in an industry that I love such as surfing has always been an interest of mine, but something I never dreamed would become my reality.

With Hawaiian South Shore, I randomly came across a job posting for a key holder position and applied. To my surprise, I got a call back a few days later to set up an interview. One thing led to another, and with a little bit of fate working on my side, plus hard work and the luck of having David coach me along the way, I am proudly here today as manager of Hawaiian South Shore.

Tell us some of your favorite things about working at HSS, and about the shop in general.
My favorite thing is stoking out customers. When a customer buys a board that you’ve recommended, and they come back to tell you how stoked they are and how well it surfs. That is the best feeling in the world.

I feel super blessed to be able to make a living doing something I love. I used to think that only top pros got to live that dream but working at Hawaiian South Shore has taught me that it is possible for everyone. To keep that dream alive is like anything great and it takes a lot of work and dedication.

Another thing that I love about working here is that all the things we sell are products that I believe in and use. I don’t have to put on a front, and it’s nice to be able to be genuine and authentic in my work.

Well we genuinely love having you here at Hawaiian South Shore, Brett. Thanks for all the hard work!


REVIEWS , REVIEWS, REVIEWS:
Getting Reviews stokes us out and helps others know how the board rides, so keep them coming! Thanks for all you folks that do give us board reviews, we really appreciate it and it helps us help others.

CJ Nelson Haven Model
Raul Baybayan Shout out to the HSS Crew! I think the Haven is one of the best all-around boards to ride hands down! Had a blast riding it the past couple of days. If you want a CJ Nelson Designs board, but can’t decide on a specific model? The “Haven” is all of them combined in this one model! The addiction lives on…..Thanks Brett…

CJ Nelson Guerreo Model
bigote_bruhh@cj_nelson this board is MAGIC!!! Insanely responsive and super fun in these less than prime conditions. Thanks @hwnsouthshore for the hookup!

Lost Libtech Review surfing desert
This is the board I’ve been riding out here in the desert for the last two months. I’ve caught the best waves of my life on it and even more so the hardest beatings I can easily say I have never seen so many broken boards “this place chews 6’0’s like toothpicks”. Having surfed every single swell this season I am still on #1. Somehow @ libtechsurf are making their boards.



In today’s online marketplace, reviews are the lifeblood of businesses and especially boutique and locally-owned businesses such as Hawaiian South Shore. Over the years, we have had the support of a lot of great customers, and many of them have spoken up online by reviewing our shop and letting the world know about their experiences here. Everyone here at Hawaiian South Shore, is extremely proud of our consistently high reviews across the different ratings platforms and very appreciative of everyone who has taken the time to post reviews and help us grow. In doing so, you truly are enabling us to be a better surf shop, and to continue to evolve our company over the nearly two decades that we have been in business.

If you haven’t had the opportunity to review us online yet, please consider taking a few minutes to do so! Not only does this help others find our shop and learn about your experience here, but it also helps us to continually improve the service that we offer you. If you have had any problems at the shop in the past (hopefully not!), please feel free to contact us directly so that we can learn from these experiences and ensure that you are satisfied and stoked!

Thanks again, for all the support over the years. Our shop exists for and because of customers like you!



FIREWIRE HYDRONAUT
Daniel Thomson (aka Tomo) has made a name for himself as an open-minded board builder not afraid to try weird, quirky shapes. While these boards might look a bit strange at first, the fact that Tomo downright rips on them lends them a lot of credibility. So, it’s no wonder that Firewire has taken Tomo into their stable of shapers.

One of Tomo’s most hyped and highly anticipated Firewire models has surely been the Hydronaut over the past couple of years. The elliptical template almost results in what looks like a rounded double-ender board with the wide point a bit forward of center. The torpedo nose reflects Tomo’s overarching ethos of doing away with unnecessary foam and making the board a maneuverable weapon for heavy waves. The Hydronaut is intended to be a step-up for heavier more powerful waves, Tomo has ridden it in solid swells at places such as Baja, Malibu, Black’s and the reef breaks on Oahu’s North Shore. Stu Kennedy has also been seen ripping this step-up in hefty waves around the world.

The board comes stocked in dimensions ranging from 5’8” to 6’8”, with width ranging from 18 5/16” to 20 11/16” and volume ranging from 24 liters to 44 liters respectively.

For those looking to tap into the eccentric genius that is reflected in Tomo’s boards and apply it to heavier and hollower waves, then Hydronaut is the answer.


SITTING BETTER TO HELP YOUR BACK
Spencer Chang, MD
Sports Medicine Fellowship Trained
Orthopaedic Surgeon at Straub Medical Center
WSL Orthopaedic Consultant

I ran across a great article on NPR.org entitled, “To Fix That Pain In Your Back, You Might Have To Change The Way You Sit.” Here’s a brief summary.

Many of us sit like this:

I see it in the line up all the time, waiting for waves. Unfortunately, it is pretty rampant on land too.

Americans on average sit about nine to thirteen hours a day. But a study on Hadza people from Tanzania, East Africa showed that despite being more physically active, spending about 75 minutes a day exercising, they sit just as much (10 hours/day). Thing is, the Hadza people don’t have back problems even as they age.

You see, the Hadza just sit with much better posture than we do. Americans will often sit like the letter “C” from looking from the side like the picture above. This tends to put a whole lot more pressure on the structures in the front. The “C” posture can cause disk degeneration, pushing the disks out the back, pinching nerves, causing arthritis around the facet joints in the back, and causing pain.

Ideally, we should sit straightening out the “C”, like the picture below.

The old adage, “Sit up straight”, may have something to do with our poor posture. The tendency is to stick out the chest, which can make the back pain worse. Of course, slouching is bad too. The focus should be on correcting your pelvic position. Pretend you have a tail and stick out your tail to wag. Effectively, you tilt the pelvis forward, or flex at the hips, not at the waist (like in a “C” shape position). The quadriceps muscles can relax and the hamstrings can stretch. By sticking out your tail and correcting the pelvic position, the spine lines up like a stack of building blocks. The shoulders roll back as well. All of a sudden, the pressure is relieved in the low back, upper back, and even the shoulders. You suddenly feel like you are sitting tall. If you have back pain or shoulder pain, try this. Remember degeneration is a cumulative effect, so teach your children too.

For an appointment call the Straub Bone and Joint Center at 5224232. Just say Dave from Hawaiian South Shore sent you! Also, if you have any questions shoot me an e-mail at Skychang@straub.net.

Source: https://www.airrosti.com/injuries-we-treat/upper-cross-syndrome http://www.muscleimbalancesyndromes.com/janda-syndromes/upper-crossed-syndrome/




Our Hawaiian South Shore surf top is a combination wetsuit top/rash guard, for those cool mornings when you need a little extra insulation and want to keep your session going well into the morning hours when the sun starts to heat up. A 2mm neoprene chest and back provides warmth and padding for your chest while paddling. Meanwhile, the SPF 50 rash guard material on the arms and sides offer sun and rash protection without sacrificing flexibility as you paddle.

We beefed up the boardshort connector, which can be tied to your boardshort string to make sure the top doesn’t ride up. And a back zipper provides easy entry, with the zipper extending up to the middle back to increase flexibility and prevent stretching and wear of the neoprene when putting the top on. The zipper is also made with a YKK zipper specifically engineered for salt water so that it doesn’t corrode and is held closed with a Velcro closure.


WHAT’S NEW WHAT’S HOT

LOST NEW MODEL Landing December in Carbon Wrap. Yep, I ordered one for myself in carbon wrap and I can’t wait!!!!

 

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Hawaiian South Shore September Newsletter

KOMBUCHA: GOOD HEALTH THROUGH GOOD DRINKS
David Kelly | Owner, Hawaiian South Shore

I’ve been drinking kombucha for the past two years now. I usually drink one bottle of kombucha every day, and I really like it. The probiotics (a.k.a. good bacteria) that grow in kombucha help to ensure that our digestive systems have good bacteria that are necessary for optimal health. Especially in an age when antibiotics are prescribed liberally throughout the world. It is quite common to lack these healthy probiotics, so it is important to find ways to replace them.

I’ve always been conscious of the fact that probiotics and healthy bacteria are very important for good health and wellness. Virtually every culture throughout history has had some sort of probiotic food in their diets from sauerkraut, kimchi, poi and even fermented camel milk. My introduction to the importance of healthy bacteria was through my friend Mark Lambert, who drinks yogurt daily to get his probiotics. I got on that program and drank yogurt every day for quite a while, as well. But a few years ago, I discovered kombucha and thought I’d change things up. I like the fizz of kombucha because it reminds me of carbonated drinks, except that it’s good for you!

Furthermore, kombucha is typically made from black tea, which has a bacterial culture added to it called SCOBY. SCOBY stands for “symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeast”. It looks weird and sort of like an alien life-form but does amazing things when it is added to liquids that feed it, such as sweet tea. Many people grow their own kombucha at home by combining black tea, sugar, and SCOBY. The SCOBY feeds on the sugar in the tea and goes through a fermentation process that produces healthy bacteria!

Some sophisticated fermenters produce commercial kombuchas and add all sorts of flavors and types of tea. This makes for a nice variety of kombuchas available. The drinks tend to be sweet and pungent while at the same time they have mild fermented flavors and fizz. Most kombuchas have caffeine since they are made from black tea, so it is important to keep that in mind. Water kefir is an option for those of you looking for a caffeine-free probiotic drink option and it’s also tasty, fizzy, and full of healthy bacteria.

Since kombucha is fermented it does contain some alcohol, but in most recipes the alcohol content is negligible. However, some fermenters are making kombucha based beverages with alcohol content as high as eight percent or more, like Boochcraft in San Diego. These drinks pack a punch, but still have that classic kombucha flavor while being gluten-free and full of the healthy bacteria from SCOBY.

Nevertheless, when you decide to consume your probiotics it’s important to remember to do so on a regular basis and especially during and after antibiotics. Whether you end up eating healthy bacteria from kimchi, poi, or from drinking kombucha like me, here’s to a healthy gut and a great meal!


HAWAIIAN SOUTH SHORE HYBRID WETSUIT TOP/RASH GUARD

One of the most rewarding things about being involved in the surf industry is that every now and then, you get the opportunity to get your hands dirty and create something new and innovative. Rash guards and wetsuit tops aren’t anything new and have been around for decades. But here at Hawaiian South Shore, we have noticed that several of the popular wetsuit top brands lack something or don’t have the characteristics and specifications that we need and want in a surf top. So rather than complaining, we decided we’d design our own!

Our Hawaiian South Shore surf top is a combination wetsuit top and rash guard, for those cool mornings when you need a little extra insulation. It will allow you to keep your session going well into the morning hours when the sun starts to heat up. A 2mm neoprene chest and back provides warmth and padding for your chest while paddling. Meanwhile, the SPF 50 rash guard material on the arms and sides offer sun and rash protection without sacrificing flexibility as you paddle.

We beefed up the boardshort connector, so it can be tied to your boardshort string to make sure the top doesn’t ride up. This surf top has a back zipper that provides easy entry since the zipper extends up the middle back. The zipper will increase the flexibility and prevent stretching and wear of the neoprene, when putting the top on. The zipper is also made with a YKK zipper, that is specifically engineered for salt water. The zipper won’t corrode and is held closed with a Velcro closure.

The top comes in sizes ranging from small to XL and comes in sleek black neoprene. The surf top has no markings other than the name of your favorite surf shop on the chest! Come down to Hawaiian South Shore and check our tour new surf top, that we are proud to have made ourselves!


NEW STOCK LIMITED QUANTY!

LOST RNF 5’5” X ODYSEA Available in two colors only (Steele Blue and Red). If you want one of the world’s all-time best selling soft fish models, I highly suggest you pre-ordering it today!


MEMBER OF THE MONTH
Keven K.

When and what got you into surfing?
I started surfing in 8th grade. I don’t remember exactly what peaked my interest (that was a long time ago) but a bunch of friends got boards and we headed out to Canoes. My first board was a 6’2” Lightning Bolt wing swallow single fin. Lol, I might be dating myself.

Did you have a time period you weren’t surfing? If so when and why did you start back up?
Yeah, a couple of times. I stopped in the 90’s since life and work took priority. I started again around 2000, with a friend from work who was doing dawn patrol at Kaisers. I bought a $100 Realm board from Costco. That was fun, but the kids came along so I took another break from the water. Finally started up again in 2012 and never going to stop again. Every time I’ve taken a break, I’ve had the yearning to get back surfing.

Where is your favorite place to eat after surfing? What is your favorite item?
I love Rainbows! Loco Moco or boneless chicken with a slush float! Unfortunately, I can’t be eating like that all the time. I’d like to keep living and surfing so I need to manage my diet.

What other hobbies do you have besides surfing?
I try to be involved with my boys, as much as they will let me. I also try to play basketball with my friends or as much time as my body will allow.

What do you do for work?
I’m a project manager.

What board did you get from us?
I have a 6’0” Lib Tech Puddle Fish and the 5’5” Odysea X Lost RNF.

Why did you decide on this model and size?
Puddle Fish, since I like the durable Lib Tech construction. I have a 5’11” Puddle Jumper (bought used off Craigslist) so the 6’ was comparable. I wanted to try the new-design and feel the difference in how they perform. Also, the RNF since I went to your website the other week and saw the pic with Matt Biolos holding it. There was a link to a YouTube clip and those guys were having so much fun. I had to check it out.

How does it surf and what did you like about it?
The Puddle Fish works exactly as you and Brett described. It’s a speed rocket with more drawn out turns then the Puddle Jumper. The RNF, is fun. No other way to describe it. I was skeptical at the size with 42L of volume, but it works. It’s easy to get into the waves and is a blast to ride. It turns like a skateboard!

Have you used different fin setups? If so, what fins have you tried on that board?
I’ve tried the Puddle Fish with the Split Keel Quad and I’m currently using a small ARC Thruster setup. I like the thruster setup because I think it allows me to turn better. The RNF comes with its own set of fins that work.

Would you like to add anything else?
I would most definitely like to express my appreciation to you and your team. Hawaiian South Shore is not there just to sell surf stuff. You guys focus on building relationships. I think that is the extra something that sets you apart from everyone else. It’s more than just a business and I experience that every time I set foot in your shop. Oh, and thank you for providing me with the right information to make the best decisions on surf gear!


SURFING THE FUTURE WITH KELLY SLATER’S CYMATIC


Kelly Slater is one of the most influential surfers. This includes not only how we look at competition and high-performance surfing, but also how we look at the modern surfboard. Kelly’s ultra-rockered potato chips of the 1990s set off an entire generation of copycats. Around the turn of the century, Slater took things in an entirely new direction with shorter and wider flatter boards. Again, we all took note and followed.

Most recently, Slater has invested in Firewire and started his own line of boards in collaboration with renowned shapers like Daniel “Tomo” Thomson, the first two models in the line are the Sci-Fi and the Omni. These models have become ubiquitous in lineups around the world. The Sci-Fi has even turned some heads in world tour heats. Slater’s latest board design, Tomo has even more people talking. Slater dropped an edit a few months back of him ripping the bag out of well overhead waves, on what looks like a 5’5”.

The Cymatic blends the best elements of the Sci-Fi and the Omni, but also has entirely new elements that thrive on their own merits. One of these is an increase in rocker throughout the board and especially in the tail. This added kick allows for control in larger waves and provides a platform, from which to maneuver. Increased rocker makes a board agile and able to turn on a tight radius. The first edit of Slater shredding his Cymatic demonstrated exactly that.

Another thing that is interesting about the Cymatic is that it is definitely not intended as a groveler. It’s a short wide board that excels in real waves, but despite that fact, it does grovel really well! Since the Cymatic holds volume and rail throughout, it’s able to accelerate in small waves. The reduced length also offers the ability to turn your speed into maneuvers. Cymatics are intended to be sized approximately like the Omni. It has been found that going a touch shorter in hollow waves can result in increased speed and control in the barrel. This is likely due to the narrower tail design.

Whatever type of waves you are regularly surfing, the Cymatic brings a proven high-tech flavor that is good enough for the 11-time world champ. So, if it’s good enough for Slater, it’s definitely good enough for us!

Source: https://www.airrosti.com/injuries-we-treat/upper-cross-syndrome, http://www. muscleimbalancesyndromes.com/janda-syndromes/upper-crossed-syndrome/


REVIEWS: Super Big Mahalo for the folks that take the time to give reviews. We really appreciate it!
Straw Hat Review:


I used my straw hat 2mm wetsuit for the first time this past weekend on a really windy and chilly Diamond Head Dawn Patrol session. It worked absolutely perfect. Nice fit with no binding and great stretch. It kept me warm until the sun came out. Thank you HSS (Brett and Dave) for always providing excellent service and bringing in the best products to the island!!! Super Stoked!!!

Hayden Shapes 5’9 Holy Grail:


Great board! Finally got the right volume! Feels good under my feet from speed down the line to rail to rail turns. So much fun in all conditions. Good drive off the bottom turn with a nice transition flow. Pretty good construction. Surfed it about 20x’s only one tiny pressure on top. At 29.7 L catches wave like my paddlefish at 31 L. Super satisfied that your team helped me decide on this board! -Blaine


Mahalo to David and the Hawaiian South Shore crew! You guys helped me choose an awesome CJ Nelson longboard and provided incredible service to me!

“9’4 Harley Ingleby Diamond Drive (9’4 23” 3 1/16” 76 L). Current fin set up = FCS II Harley XL Thruster
b

I absolutely fell in love with my first surfboard!!!!! I demoed the Stewart Redline II, Harley Ingleby Cruiser, and CJ Nelson Sprout before I made my decision with this board. (Helped by Brett and Dave). I am not a total beginner but a Beg-Int who was looking for a board that is not too easy but a good progression board. This board handles everything. It’s super easy to paddle and super light (Thanks to Thunderbolt Technology) and it’s extremely durable. I was during at Canoes and one of the tourists spearheaded [the] center of my board at full speed. I thought my board is either broken in half or has a huge ding on it. But guess what? No dings, just a little [pressure] point marks. If anyone is having trouble choosing between the HI Cruiser and Diamond Drive. Diamond Drive is more loose but super-fast down the line. It’s super easy to paddle and catch waves, just like the cruiser. Definitely add this board to your quiver. You won’t regret it! To Brett and Dave, thank you so much for your passion in what you do and assistance for getting the perfect board. Mahalo, David C.


THE UPPER CROSSED-SYNDROME
Spencer Chang, MD
Sports Medicine Fellowship Trained Orthopaedic Surgeon at Straub Medical Center
WSL Orthopaedic Consultant

The upper crossed syndrome (UCS) is the result of imbalances in the upper half of the body. It is the result of poor posture over an extended period of time. The shoulders appeared rounded, the head is in front of the body, and there is an apparent curve in the neck and upper back. It’s a very common problem especially in our sedentary society, where we may spend an extraordinary amount of time at a desk and computer. However, it is also common in athletes and surfers as well.

In UCS, the rhomboid and neck flexor muscles weaken, while the pectorals and upper trapezius muscles tighten. This postural problem can result in symptoms including:
1. Headaches
2. Neck pain or strain in the back in the neck
3. Chest pain and tightness
4. Pain in the upper back, especially the shoulders
5. Difficulty sitting, reading, watching television, or driving for long periods of time
6. Restricted range of motion in the neck or shoulders
7. Numbness, tingling, and pain in the upper arms
8. Difficulty surfing

Treatment is non-surgical and could involve working with a physical or occupational therapist, masseuse, or a chiropractor. Preventative stretches, exercises, and improved posture can help. Garments like Intelliskin which help to improve posture can be helpful as well.

Fortunately, this is not typically a problem that requires surgery, but can lead to problems that may need surgery if left unchecked.

For an appointment call the Straub Bone and Joint Center at 5224232. Just say Dave from Hawaiian South Shore sent you! Also, if you have any questions shoot me an e-mail at Skychang@straub.net.

Source: https://www.airrosti.com/injuries-we-treat/upper-cross-syndrome http://www.muscleimbalancesyndromes.com/janda-syndromes/upper-crossed-syndrome/


New At Hawaiian South Shore!

In case you haven’t heard, we just dropped our new Rashguard online. Available today at HAWAIIANSOUTHSHORE.COM
FEATURES:
-2mm front and back with spf 50 rashguard sleeve and sides
-2mm for padding on the chest -Beefed up boardshort connector
-Back zip for easy on and off -Back zip runs to mid back -YKK zipper specaifially designed for salt water so no corrosion -Velcro to secure the zipper down so it wont ride up——hawaiiansouthshore


CJ Nelson came into the shop to sign our last Slasher board. Who’s going to get it? Check out the video we posted earlier today to see the board in action.
Get it before it’s gone at: HAWAIIANSOUTHSHORE.COM

BRAND: CJ Nelson Surfboards
MODEL: Slasher / Australian Slasher
SIZE: 9’4″ x 23 1/4″ x 3 1/4″
VOLUME: 75 L
FINS: 2+1 FCS II Fin System
CONSTRUCTION: Thunderbolt Technology – Textilium


Follow @hwnsouthshore on Instagram! 

Picked up my handmade-to-order Stewart Redline 11 longboard today!! Mahalo @hwnsouthshore for fantastic experience trying out your awesome selection of boards and finding one for my own!!


Thanks Tad! Perfect step up you were looking for. Enjoy your new 6’2 Firewire 

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