Blog — surfing

How to Prepare for a Big Swell - Matt Rott

Posted by David Kelly on

How to Prepare for a Big Swell - Matt Rott

How to Prepare for a Big Swell Matt Rott at Waimea By now you might have heard that the Eddie is on yellow alert, and that’s because the biggest swell in the past year is currently bearing down on Hawaii. Whether or not the Eddie ends up running, Monday and Tuesday promise to be exciting days in the water, with a 16 foot at 18 seconds swell filling in Monday night and peaking early Tuesday morning. Waimea should be 18- to 20-foot+, and the outer reefs even bigger—and as of now we have stellar ESE (offshore) winds forecasted for the...

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How to Face Your Fears in Bigger Waves

Posted by David Kelly on

With all of the heavy-water antics that the best in the world are doing these days, and the non-stop media coverage documenting every monumental ride, it is easy to become desensitized to big wave surfing. These days it can often seem like if you aren’t charging 50-foot Peahi, then you aren’t charging at all. But the reality is that we all surf at different levels, and that big waves and the fear that comes with them are largely relative. While it might take a massive Mavs bomb to get Aaron Gold’s blood pumping, for the beginner surfer who has only...

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Getting to Know Cliff Kapono Vissla’s Man of Many Roles

Posted by David Kelly on

Over the years, surfing has had a wide variety of characters, ranging from chargers and contenders to kooks and clowns. While these luminaries have worn numerous coats as surfers, shapers, documentarians, and innovators, true renaissance men have been few and far between. But Hawaii currently has a true renaissance man in its ranks, a surfer who brings together academia, philosophy, environmentalism, innovation, athleticism, and marketability. Clifford Kapono grew up on the big island and comes from a respected Hawaiian family. While he was a talented surfer growing up, his family emphasized the importance of education. After graduating from Kamehameha High...

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Ala Moana Bowls Rescue

Posted by David Kelly on

When you surf a spot for long enough, you start to get to know the familiar faces in the lineup. Surfers are creatures of habit, and we all have our favorite spots that we frequent day in and day out—whether they happen to be well-known North Shore spots like Pipeline or Velzyland, underground secret spots on the West Side, or uber-crowded Town waves such as Queens and Threes. Ala Moana Bowls is arguably the most crowded wave in Town, but it still has its crew of regulars that you’ll bump into every time you paddle out for a session. One...

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After a Slow Autumn, Winter Hits Hawaii

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“Winter is coming.” That’s what Jon Snow likes to tell people on the show Game of Thrones. But here in Hawaii, we follow a different calendar. For us, winter arrived a week ago. After a slow start to the North Shore season, things went apocalyptic last week, as a huge, long-period WNW swell poured into the islands. The outer reefs on Oahu went ballistic, the women’s WT season ended at Honolua Bay (congrats to Carissa Moore for winning the event, and Steph Gilmore for winning her record-tying seventh world title), and of course the Peahi Challenge was run. Actually, the...

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