Dr. Cliff Kapono and Journalist Matt Rode on Body Composition and Board Design

2025年5月26日

Introduction: Surfing Meets Science
Conversations with Dr. Cliff Kapono
Initial Reactions to the Griffith University Study
Key Findings: Muscle Mass vs. Fat Mass
Representation and Confidence in Board Design
Missed Opportunities in the Surf Industry
The Undersized Shortboard Problem
The Longboard Trade-Off
Striking a Balance in Board Selection

Introduction: Surfing Meets Science

I’m always interested in how science and surfing intersect, and one of the people who sits at the center of that intersection is PhD scientist, professional surfer, and Hawaiian ambassador Dr. Cliff Kapono. I recently came across an interesting post from Dr. Kapono about how body mass affects board decisions between male and female competitive surfers. I knew that Hawaiian South Shore’s resident surf journalist Matt Rode has traveled extensively with Dr. Kapono over the years, so I asked him if this was something they have ever discussed, and whether he could interpret the data Dr. Kapono presented in his Instagram post.

Instagram: cliff_kapono

Conversations with Dr. Cliff Kapono

One of the many enjoyable things about traveling with Cliff is that the conversations we have during trips are quite wide ranging. Whereas many of the people you meet on surf trips are relatively singularly focused (on waves, of course) and not exactly equipped for deep, diverse conversations, with Cliff, you end up spending more time talking about topics like the dangers of overuse of antibiotics, the plight of indigenous peoples, and the responsible and sustainable structuring of society than surfing.

Initial Reactions to the Griffith University Study

While I haven’t had a chance to talk to Cliff about the study in question (about anthropomorphic profile, surfboard design, and the board selection process), I’m not surprised that this is something he is interested. After reviewing his post (which essentially states that, in a cohort of 42 elite-level surfers studies by Sienna Gosney’s team at Griffith University (leave it to Australian universities to study important topics like board dimensions!), a few key points stood out to me.

Key Findings: Muscle Mass vs. Fat Mass

The first was the fact that the physical factor that most affected board choice in men was muscle mass, whereas the physical factor that most affected board choice in female elite surfers was fat mass. This makes sense when one considers the difference in male and female physiology—a fact that is often overlooked in the pursuit of equality within sports.

The second and, in my opinion, much more important factor was the fact that female athletes seem to depend much more on their shapers’ input when it comes to board design than on wave type, personal feel, and input from coaches. The researches suspected that this might be indicative of a lower level of confidence in their own knowledge of board design, which may reflect a historical lack of representation of women in the surf industry in general, and in board design conversation specifically.

Representation and Confidence in Board Design

While we have seen a lot of progress within surfing in terms of female representation over the past decade, studies such as this one indicate that we have not yet reached an effective level of gender parity, which is unfortunate, particularly considering the fact that the percentage of surfers in the US who are female over the past five years has increased by 20 percent, to the point where more than a third of all surfers in the country are now women and girls. As the sport continues to grow and progress, I believe we will see this ratio get closer to 50 percent—a development that would actually expand the industry and result in a larger consumer base for the various surf-related brands. Ironically, many of the brands that would potentially benefit from this growth of the female surf population remains reticent to invest in developing women’s surfing.

Missed Opportunities in the Surf Industry

In terms of the practical ramifications of the study for people seeking to optimize their board design/selection, the biggest takeaway for me was that the majority of the cohort seemed to see their body mass (whether muscle or fat mass) as a critical factor when choosing board dimensions. While this might seem obvious to those of us who have ordered hundreds of custom boards over the years, the average surfboard consumer remains largely uninformed about the factors that make boards work well—particularly in terms of shortboards.

In my experience, I have observed that the vast majority of recreational shortboarders tend to be on too small of boards. I believe that this is due to a combination of attempting to emulate what their professional surfer heroes are doing (by riding similar boards) and trying to find shortcuts to “ripping” (since smaller boards are easier to turn and make people feel like they are surfing better).

The Undersized Shortboard Problem

In reality, most people would benefit from increasing the length and volume of their shortboards, both in terms of paddle power (and, subsequently, the ability to catch waves) and cleaning up their technique due to the fact that longer boards require more effective, proper use of the rail.

While the general surfing public has made progress in this regard over the past two to three decades (we are much more likely to ride size- and ability-specific boards than we were in the anorexic surfboard era of the late 1990s), there is still a lot of room for improvement, particularly when it comes to entry-level surfers who often do not receive enough informed input in what they should be riding.

The Longboard Trade-Off

That being said, on the longboard end of the spectrum, I have actually observed the opposite effect—surfers allowing the large volume of their boards to make them complacent and lazy, and tending to lose paddle fitness the more they embrace the longboard aesthetic.

Striking a Balance in Board Selection

Ideally, I believe that surfers should try to find a middle ground between these two extremes—riding larger, more enjoyable shortboards that are designed for their ability and fitness levels, while at the same time approaching longboards as a condition-specific tool that facilitates a specific style of surfing rather than using them as a crutch and an excuse to get out of shape.

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Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Why does body composition matter in surfboard selection?

Body composition directly impacts how a surfboard floats and performs. Studies show that muscle mass influences board choice more heavily for male surfers, while fat mass plays a bigger role for female surfers, due to natural physiological differences.

What’s the “undersized shortboard problem”?

Many recreational surfers ride boards that are too small, often inspired by the pro surfers they admire. These boards may feel fast or agile but actually hinder paddling ability, wave-catching, and rail control, which can slow overall progression.

Why do some female surfers rely more on shapers than coaches or wave feel?

Research suggests that female surfers may rely more on shapers due to a lack of representation and historical exclusion from board design discussions, leading to less confidence in making independent equipment choices.

Has there been progress in how surfers choose boards based on ability and size?

Yes, over the past 20–30 years, surfers have become more aware of the importance of riding boards suited to their skill level and body type. However, there is still room for improvement, especially among newer surfers.

What’s the downside of relying too much on longboards?

While longboards offer great float and easy paddling, some surfers become overly dependent on their volume, which can lead to reduced paddle fitness and a more passive approach to surfing.

How can surfers find the right board for their body type?

The best approach is to consider your body composition, fitness level, and ability, and then consult a knowledgeable shaper or surf shop. Don’t just copy the pros—your needs are unique.