Hawaiian South Shore Member of the Month

 Hawaiian South Shore Member of the Month Surfers Paradise

When and why did you initially get into surfing?

I have always been drawn to the water. After I caught my first wave, I was hooked for life. Surfing is the best feeling in the world to me and I hope to keep surfing until I can’t anymore.

 

Did you have a time period you laid off from surfing? If so, when and why did you start back up?

I only lay off surfing when I am injured. In 2012, I had a bad surf accident in Maui. Had to fly back to Oahu for emergency surgery. Almost lost the use of my left arm. After shoulder, pectoral, and bicep surgery, I had to sleep sitting up in a chair for four months and endured six months of physical therapy after being in an immobilizer for a half the year. Mahalos to Orthopedic surgeon Dr. David Vasconcellos, Physical Therapist Kacy Nekoba and the entire team at KP. As soon as I got permission, I was back out in the ocean surfing. That was my longest lay off.

 

What is your favorite thing about surfing?

It is hard to choose just one favorite thing about surfing. I guess I would say the way it makes me feel when I am riding a wave. I feel like I am a superhero or like I can fly. I feel calm and excited all at the same time. I feel fully present in the moment and like all the problems in the world disappear. It is hard to explain the feeling to someone who has never surfed but it is the best.

 

Where is your favorite place to eat after surfing? What is your favorite item on the menu?

An acai bowl from Waffle and Berry or the breakfast burger at Journey by HFC. If you don’t know, now you know.

 

What other hobbies do you have besides surfing?

Food, Travel, DJing, OC Paddling, Skateboards, Martial Arts, Writing Children’s Books, Coaching, Motorcycles, Volunteering, Taking Naps

 

What type of work do you do?

Data Analytics, Campaigns & Strategic Initiatives, Esports, Surf Coach, and DEI

 

Tell us about the board you recently purchased from us. What model and size is it, and how do you like its performance?

My most recent surfboard purchase from Hawaiian South Shore was the 9’5” x 23 ½” x 2 ⅞” Kai Sallas Camper shaped by Tommy Maus. This high performance board is pure magic. It does everything in small and head high surf. It noserides and turns on a dime. One of my favorite go to surfboards.

 

Do you have any additional comments?

I recently had the opportunity to surf at Kelly Slater Wave Co. Surf Ranch in Central California. It was one of the best surf trip experiences of my life. If you get an invite or have the opportunity to go, I highly recommend it. I caught some of the best waves and barrels of my life. The entire staff is beyond amazing!

 

 

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